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Hornady Case Prep Center is in the shop!

January 30th, 2010

I’m sure most of you have heard of or seen the new Hornady Case Prep Center. I now have one in my shop, and have used it a bit.

I’ll have to say, so far I’m really liking this piece of equipment. When you first pull down the main lever, you’ll be surprised at how smooth the stroke is, and how positive the stop is. It feels heavy and substantial.

I’m in the process of trimming and prepping all of my 44 magnum brass (old, used and abused) so getting this machine recently felt like “good timing”.

Here’s a shot I took of my case prep center in the studio:
Case Prep Center

Stay tuned for more details, videos, tips/tricks, etc. I’ll be showing rifle and pistol brass prep. Should be fun!

SHOT Show 2010 news from RCBS: Rifle bullet feeder to be released this year

January 22nd, 2010

I’ve been testing and shooting videos of the RCBS Pistol Bullet Feeder- an exciting new product that was announced and demo’d at last year’s SHOT show. As of this writing I’ve tested it on the Dillon XL-650, The Hornady Lock-N-Load AP, and the RCBS Pro 2000. It’s a great product, and it really enhances pistol reloading workflow.

But what about rifle bullets? (I get that question a lot- can I use this for .223?) Well, in 2010, RCBS will be making a rifle bullet feeder kit available for both .223 and 30 caliber rifle bullets! The feed die is different in this case, and the system is different than the pistol setup, but retains much of the same basic components.

From Kent Sakamoto, RCBS product line manager:

Bullet Feeder—Rifle (Progressive Press)

Based on the popularity of the Pistol Bullet Feeder Kit, RCBS® introduces two rifle versions— one for .22 caliber and one for .30 caliber. This new Rifle Bullet Feeder is designed to fit on most 7/8″-14 threaded progressive presses. It features a four country universal 110-240 power supply operated collator unit that orients the bullets to drop into the feed mechanism. The hopper holds approximately 250 (55-gr) .22 cal bullets and 100-125 (180-gr) .30 cal bullets. Each kit increases load rates by least 50%.

*NOTE: Not for use with lead bullets. Use jacketed or FMJ bullets only.

Features & Benefits

  •  Available for either .22 or .30 caliber
  •  Increases load rate by 50%
  •  Large hopper for non-stop reloading and max output/efficiency
  •  Bullets are oriented to drop directly into feed mechanism/seat die
  •  Adjustable collator height
  • RCBS® two-year warranty

Picture:

Rifle bullet feeder

I’ll let you all know when I know more about when this product will be available, cost, etc.

Would you all like to see videos of this when it’s available? (I can’t wait to try it myself…)

Lock-N-Load Steel Stand / Pedestal Plans Available!

January 20th, 2010

One of the most effective way to enhance the operation of your reloading press is to make sure it is mounted rock solid. By rock solid I mean- if you could, weld it to the deck of an aircraft carrier (peraps that’s not practical… :) ).

Over the last couple of years, I’ve had quite a few requests for dimensions and plans for the steel pedestal/stand that I constructed for my Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive reloading press (now the stand I use for all progressives via custom adapter plates…).

Well, due to the generosity of one of my readers (Jon Kelly) who took the time to make up plans for this stand- you can now download these plans- just click on the image below!

Lock-N-Load AP Stand Plans

What is it about blued revolvers?

January 14th, 2010

Not sure what it is, but I really like blued revolvers. Stainless is much more practical in some ways, but finely crafted curved blue steel is just a thing of beauty!

The revolver pictured below makes me think I’m a detective from 1932. There’s something about holding it that makes me want to put on a double breasted suit and hat. Kind of fun to take it out shooting, and be taken back “to another time” for a moment. It’s also got a great trigger, and shoots at point of aim. Not bad for a revolver that’s about 80 or more years old!

Model 1905 38 Special

S&W Model 1905 38 Special

Anyone else have a weakness for blued revolvers? I can tell you, when I see a mirror-polished blued Colt python, it activates my senses. Same is true of a nice S&W model 29.

Some thoughts about selecting pistol powders

January 12th, 2010

Any time you go to choose reloading components, you have to ask yourself- with all of the choices out there, which product is right for this application?

Pistol_Powders_Compressed

When you’re selecting a pistol powder, here are a few things to consider:

  1. Caliber, barrel length, power level, bullet weight
  2. Metering capabilities
  3. Load data
  4. Safety and case capacity
  5. Availability
  6. Cost

I know this is not an exhaustive list, but it’s enough to get you started :) – so let’s take a look at each of these considerations…

Before you get started, you may want to read the following article on smokeless gunpowders from the “Reloading 101″ section on this site:
Gunpowder Basics

Now that you have the basics down, let’s talk about the criteria from our list:

Caliber, barrel length, power level, bullet weight

Any time you go to figure something out, you have to start somewhere, and with powder selection, the caliber you’re going to load for is the place to start. Some calibers perform better with faster powders (such as 9mm) where other calibers will favor slower powders (such as 44 Magnum). If you look at online sources of load data, or in your reloading manual, you can pick the caliber you’re loading for, and see what powders are listed. If you have a short barreled gun (snub nose revolver or short barreled automatic) then you should look for faster powders. If you have a long barrel handgun (like a 6″ revolver) you can use slower powders. You also need to decide how powerful your loads will be. If you’re loading 44 Magnum, and want to reduce your load, you have to be careful not to use powders that are intended for heavy loads such as Hodgdon H-110/Winchester 296 (same powder). Those powders require 90%+ load level to burn properly and can be dangerous if down-loaded. Bullet weight will also make a difference on what powder you use. Generally, lighter bullets can handle faster powders, and heavier bullets will favor slower powders. Consult your load data to determine which powder is right for your bullet weight.

Metering Capabilities

If you’re loading for pistol, you’re likely using a progressive reloading press. Each press has it’s own powder measure design, and each has types of powder that it will meter better, and types of powder that meter less reliably. In general, flake powders (such as Alliant Unique) are not as consistent as ball powders or flattened ball powders (such as Winchester 213/Hodgdon HP-38 – the same powder).

Load Data

I’ve already mentioned that consulting load data is a good way to pick a powder. If you have abundant load data (start with manufacturer data, then look at user-supplied data on websites) then you may have more “tried and true” options for your loads. If you don’t see load data posted, don’t assume you can’t use that powder, but be prepared to do some foot work to find out what the correct load should be. Load data from trusted sources (forum participants you trust, friends, etc) can be a good way to go.

Safety and Case Capacity

Some loads do not fill the case very much in terms of air to powder ratio. If you add a tall slender case to the equation (think 38 special) then you will have a tough time visually inspecting the powder level while you load. It would be very easy to double-charge if you had an equipment malfunction or other stoppage of your workflow. There are two options here to make sure you are safe: first would be to use a powder that will “overflow” upon a double chare, the second is to use a powder check system. Dillon, Hornady, and RCBS offer great powder checking solutions – better safe than sorry!

Availability

Let’s face it- in this political climate some times you have to be creative with what you can find due to the shortage of reloading components we are currently suffering through. You may have to start with what powders are available, and select primers, bullets, and load data from that standpoint. What’s important is to always use reliable load data, and don’t experiment with potentially dangerous unknown loads. Always check your load data from two sources if possible, and ALWAYS double check your load data before starting your loading process! Keeping good records is a great idea as well.

Cost

I think it’s important to consider the cost of powder, but it’s the last thing to consider in my opinion. The proper application for your intended uses and the safety factor are more important. Some powders are more expensive than others, and some loads are more expensive than others. Usually the cost of bullets is much more than the cost of primers or powder (unless you cast your own bullets). If you want to calculate the cost of powder for your loads, just remember that 1 pound = 7000 grains. It’s easy enought to calculate once you know that.

There you have it. Some thoughts to keep in mind when you go to pick a powder. If you’re going to order a 5lb cannister of powder, you better be sure of what you’re getting :)

Did I miss anything here? Feel free to comment with your thoughts.

Thanks!

Q&A: Help! crushed cases loading 45ACP!

January 8th, 2010

I recently got this question from a reader (recoilamrs) regarding loading 45ACP on the Hornady Lock-N-Load:

Hi! This is killing me I swear!! No matter what I do I can’t reload 45 auto that fits into my XD45. It doesn’t look like new ammo and it always seems to bend the case wall. I don’t know what else I can do. I’ve tried reading the manual. Can you please make a video on setting the dies? I got the deprimer down good but the other two are driving me crazy. If I could just see someone else do it that would be great. And I’m watching your video on 45 auto reloading and your instruction is awesome. So can you help me PLEASE!!???

I think everyone who has reloaded pistol ammo has run into this problem (crushed cases). It can be quite madening!

I’d bet you are over-crimping. Here’s how I setup a seat/crimp die for automatics:

  1. Install seat/crimp die in LNL bushing, snap into place
  2. Back the seating plug mostly out
  3. Raise the die in the bushing fairly high 
  4. Take a loaded round that is properly sized (factory ammo would be good option) and put it in the shellplate before the seat/crimp station
  5. Raise the ram, keep the ram at the top of its stroke
  6. Turn the die down until you feel it contact the case (make sure seating plug is not touching bullet
    Tighten slightly (slightly!!!)
  7. Turn down the seating plug (make sure you’re using the right profile, flat point versus round nose) until it contacts the bullet.

That should be enough to dial you in. Run a test round through, check your cartridge overall length with calipers and dial in.

Common misconception: How long will it take to justify my reloading equipment purchase?

January 7th, 2010

I hear a lot of people online asking the question: “When should I buy reloading equipment, and how long will it take to pay for itself?”

Usually the equation goes something like this:

Equipment Cost = ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) * X

Solving for X:
X = (Equipment Cost ) / ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) 

Where X is the number of boxes of ammo that need to be loaded in order to “break even”.

Example:
Equipment Cost = $1000, Factory box ammo cost = $20, Reloaded box ammo cost = $9

This yields:
X = (1000) / (20 – 9) = 90.91 Boxes of ammo = ~ 4550 rounds.

This is where a lot of people may stop, scratch their head, and say “perhaps I’ll just shoot less, and use factory ammo”.

But, this is not the “true equation”. What people are forgetting about here is the value of their used equipment, which is actually about 60-75% of what they paid for the equipment new in some cases (especially in this economy).

So, the new equation becomes:

(Equipment Cost – Used Equipment Value) = ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) * X

In terms of X:
X = (Equipment Cost – Used Equipment Value ) / ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost))

Re-calculating our example: (assuming 65% relsale value)
X = (1000 – 650) / (20 – 9) = 31.81 Boxes of ammo = ~ 1590 rounds.

Of coarse there are a LOT of variables here, bullet selection (lead -vs- jacketed), actual equipment cost, and so on and so forth. The point is, factor in your used equipment value, and the outcome is drastically different. I experienced this when upgrading from my first progressive to my second progressive (sold the 1st on ebay for about 75% of purchase price).

Hope this helps!
-Gavin

Videos posted for all 4 “5 Station” progressive reloading presses

January 2nd, 2010

Looking back at the last year, it’s been exciting to try out all types of new equipment, and to reach my goal (for 2009) of having videos posted for all 4 “5 Station” progressive reloading presses currently on the market.

It all started with the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive, I then added the Dillon XL-650, then the Lee Loadmaster, and finally the RCBS Pro 2000.

So what have I learned so far? Well, each press has a purpose, and each press also has strengths and weaknesses. Not surprising given the fact that no one company can patent every good idea.

Here’s some video screenshots from videos I posted in 2009: (OK, for those of you paying attention, the RCBS Pro 2000 video is from 2010 :) )

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP:

Hornady LNL AP

Dillon XL-650:

Dillon XL-650

Lee Loadmaster:

Lee Loadmaster

RCBS Pro 2000:

RCBS Pro 2000

It’s been very interesting to learn about how each of these presses work, and what’s involved to load pistol, load rifle, and change between calibers. I’ve even posted videos showing the RCBS bullet feeder in action with some of these presses (more of those videos to come).

I’ve also posted videos for other products such as digital scales, single stage presses, turret presses, and more.

So what are my goals for 2010? There are a few things I’d like to accomplish. One of my primary goals however is to finish extensive articles, videos, reviews, and comparisons for the 5 station progressive reloading presses. I’m also planning to cover other presses and products (The Hornady Case Prep Center for instance).

Stay tuned here on www.ultimatereloader.com , because in 2010, we’re going to have a lot of fun, and learn a lot about reloading products!

Did I miss anything? Anything specific you want to see? Please add a comment to this post!

Thanks,
Gavin

Reloading Rick #1

December 29th, 2009

Reloading Rick #1 - Dropping Bullet med

Hornady overhauls www.hornady.com – check it out!

December 24th, 2009

Hornady has always had a pretty good website, but if you browse www.hornady.com, you’ll notice a completely new layout, and additional media (video intros, etc). Overall, the new website is cleaner, more streamlined, and is easier to browse.

Sample screenshot:
New Hornady Website

If you want to go straight to the reloading section, follow this link: http://www.hornady.com/reloading

Thanks-
Gavin