It’s official guys- we’re going to get up close and personal with the AR-15 here on ultimatereloader.com! This video will give you an overview of a long-term project I’ll be working on here on ultimatereloader which will include a complete from-scratch precision AR-15 build, .223/5.56 precision handloading processes, and finally mass production of .223/5.56 ammo for the rifle we’ll build. I’m not going to stop until I attain a .5 – .75 MOA accuracy goal, so this is going to be intense!
Stay tuned as we gear up to get this project started!
24 thoughts on “AR-MPR AR-15 Project Kick-Off”
Looks like a lot of fun! I bult an AR15A4 earlier this year, and I’m eager to see how yours comes out. My buddies and I do a lot of reloading, and we always enjoy watching your videos on you tube. Good luck and have fun!
I see in the intro an RCBS progressive press. Will you also load precision .223 on the dillon or do the same techniques apply to most machines. I can’t wait for future videos keep up the good work.
What barrel will you take, Standard?
It’s going to be a Sabre defense 20″ fluted match barrel in 5.56 NATO – more details to follow!
Wow great looking lighting and video! I’ve watched virtually all your videos, and they’re great, but this one looks like you’re in a studio! Very nice production upgrade. 🙂 I look forward to watching your build progress.
Very nice, I look forward to following this as I would like to build my first M4 as well!
Just bought a Dillon 650 with all the bells & whistles. I would only ask that if you use a RCBS for this entire series you throw us a bone and let us know what approach/functions/differences you would suggest for those of us in the blue Dillon world. All the best!
Gavin, I love your videos.
As a camera operator in the Television and Film Industry I can tell you it is a relief to see someone that knows what is important in instructional video, and what is not. The production value and clarity in your lighting, photography and speech make them much more useful than most when dealing with fine points of instruction. This will be especially true with the AR build.
This year I built my first AR, and that has been a major factor in my decision to begin reloading. While my purposes for both the AR and the reloading are centered around personal defense training and not for super-accurate performance, I am sure that there will be much for me to learn as the series progresses. I look forward to the series and to expanding my knowledge in these areas.
Two items that will get you closer to your goal of ½ MOA. Trigger and barrel. Strong recommendations for a Rock Barrel and a Geissele NM AR-15 Trigger. Those two items alone (assuming a good builder) will close that gap fast. The follow up question will then be, are you a ½ MOA driver?
Wish you the best of luck and appreciate what you do to help move the game forward.
Thanks Chiller- You hit the nail on the head! Regarding the barrel, it’s going to be match grade, regarding the trigger, that’s the one I’m going to use!
Am I a 1/2 MOA driver? With a bolt action 22-250, you bet. With an AR-15, we’ll see! (hint- I’ll keep at it until I am). Please feel free to share your “top 3” benchrest hints. 🙂
I am not a benchrest shooter….lol
I am a tactical precision driver. To cross pollinate I am from the Sniper’s Hide. The question about being a 1/2 MOA driver is one of the first questions I ask a shooter when they are saying their rifle does not shoot 1/2 MOA.
Gas guns have a different set of events that occour when you light them off that require a different skill set from a bolt rifle. Look forward to watching this go off and thank you for what you are doing.
I really enjoy your videos — I have a Hornady LNL press and they have been very helpfull in understanding the setup.
I had been thinking about getting an AR 10 (308), but when I saw that you were going to produce instructional videos on an AR15 build it got me thinking. Do you think an AR10 build would be close enough to the AR15 build to work along with you?
You know Mike- I’m thinking about doing an AR-10 build in the future- but for now, I’m not sure just how many differences there are in the assembly and construction of an AR-10. Perhaps someone else knows?
This is cool! I however cheated and just bought my Lewis Machine Tool AR15 at a local shop LOL. Living in California I wanted the peace of mind that I wouldn’t have issues with legality. That and I’m impatient……
I started loading 223 military brass on my LnL recently but I find the 223 cases to be so narrow as to not activate the case feeder shut off switch. Any suggestions? I have thought about placing a narrow piece of plastic along side the hopper input to allow the 223 cases to press up against the switch.
BTW: your LnL handle is a definite improvement over the stock handle. I also find standing up while reloading to be easier and your handle makes that nearly effortless.
Awesome! Glad you like the handle 🙂
I’ll look into writing up a tips and tricks post on the case feed shut-off. I’m getting ready to load .223 on my Lock-N-Load for AR-MPR Phase III. Stay tuned!
I saw a Youtube video where someone used yarn placed inside the feeder tube. He did this to slow down the speed at which the cases fall into the feeder. I was thinking that might be enough to keep 223 cases pressed up against the feeder switch. I’ll have to try it and it’s cheap too!
BTW your videos do have excellent production quality. you must have access to some nice toys!
I admire the rifle you are building. I built a 20″Hbar that is capable of shooting .3 moa when I do my part! I get this accuracy from 55gr Hornady TAP Ammo and all of the Handloads I have done to copy it.
The rifle I built for my wife is capable of .9″ @ 100 yards and is a light-weight 16″ barrel.
Will you post a build sheet of parts and pieces for the MPR?
You can view them here:
You’re videos and information are motivating. I have a 5.56 reloading question for you:
It appears that most military grade 5.56 casings have been heat treated at the neck. Do you know if this is because it assists in the resizing process by allowing the casing to not revert back to its expanded dimensions due to “muscle memory?”
I know this is an old thread, but just wanted to say that this was great information for the build I just completed.