This story is a part of a larger series pertaining to 6.5 Creedmoor- but for this particular “installment” I wanted to do something a bit different. So this time, I’m going to show a single cartridge as it makes its way from cleaned-and-fired brass all the way to being ready to shoot (all condensed down to about 5 minutes in the video!). This setup will be used in my next related story to walk through some load development- so I hope you’re subscribed!
*Note: L.E. Wilson suggests that you trim brass before priming for safety reasons
In the video, I incorporate the items listed below:
Clockwise from top we have:
- Forster Co-Ax single stage reloading press
- Inline Fabrication Junior Ultramount (see this story for more info)
- RCBS Chargemaster Lite automated powder measure
- L.E. Wilson case trimmer, case holders, case mouth chamfer tool
- Forster case lube
- Starline small rifle primer 6.5 Creedmoor brass (previously fired)
- iGaging 0-6″ absolute origin digital caliper
- L.E. Wilson 6.5 Creedmoor case gage
- Forster 6.5 Creedmoor dies: full-length sizer, micrometer seater
- Hornady 140 grain ELD-M 6.5mm bullets
- Federal small rifle primers
- Hodgdon H-4350 powder
This collection covers just about everything you need to load precision rifle ammunition.
And here’s the process shown in the video:
- Clean brass (not shown, but necessary) by tumbling dry/wet, or using an ultrasonic cleaner
- Lube brass
- Size and de-prime brass, re-prime (can do this later off press)
- Check brass with case gage – adjust sizer if needed, check to see if trimming is needed
- Trim brass (if needed)
- Chamfer case mouth (outside and inside edges)
- Charge case
- Seat bullet
- Go shooting!
Here on Ultimate Reloader, you’ll find a ton of information related to these steps, but I wanted to provide a quick run-through of each of the steps. This is exactly what the video above covers. So consider this article a summary rather than a deep-dive.
Next, I’ll be adding a second RCBS Chargemaster lite, and will do load development and bulk loading using two automated powder measures- that should speed things up considerably! Now we’re talking. Be sure you’re subscribed!
Hopefully this quick-look has been helpful. More related content coming up soon!
Thanks,
Gavin
Since you are using Starline cases in 6.5 CM, I’m going to follow you in reloading using Starline brass cases; I read ‘one’ bad report about Starline cases not being too good; over-sized primer pocket in 308 and 6.5 CM. Because of this bad report, I bought Alpha Munition 6.5 CM cases instead, not cheap! Lapua brass will be my next buy for brass cases. I plan to follow to see how Starline cases hold up, how much the primer pocket enlarge through the repeated resizing progress. Small primer pocket cases may be a better way to go, less stretching. 6.5 Guys.com for more information.
I’ve got the Starline brass, but I won’t be reloading fifty rounds maybe thirty will do for now. I bought also 150 Peterson brass cases just to do a comparison between the two, there NO difference in either the weight per case the Starline and the Peterson brass, but weighing up the Alpha Munition brass there is a big difference in the weight.
Hi Gavin. Just getting started reloading 6.5 creedmore for my Ruger Prec and Bergara B14. Why use Federal 205 small rifle primers instead of 210, as recommended by Hornady, Nosler etc? Love your page. Dave
Very concise video Gavin. Could you comment on how to properly set up the sizing and seating dies.
Is it safe to assume it will cost a little under $1,500 to get started?
You could spend that- or less, or more, all depending on what you decide to purchase! 🙂
It should be relatively cheap since some of those items can’t be found currently. lol So the initial purchase shouldn’t be too bad. lol
I notice that when you clean the brass, the spent primer is still attached. Is it not important to have a clean primer pocket when inserting a new primer?
Also how important is the internal cleanliness of the brass? Walnut and Corn Cob media make an awesome mess of the internal cavity of the brass where as steel media cleans everything pretty efficiently with minor cleaning of primer pockets remaining. The ultra sonic tanks would probably be the best bet but for us peasants who don’t have a king’s ransom, a wet tumbler with stainless steel pins and appropriate chems may be the highest one can afford. That part maybe simplified depending on the requirement or influence that the condition of the internal cavity has on consistency. Any help would be just swimmingly!
I recently made up some 6.5CM test loads using new Lapua brass (small primer pockets), Federal 205M primers, and Hornady 140 gr ELDM bullets. I made 25 loads using 38 gr of H4350 and 25 using 41 gr of the new Winchester StaBALL 6.5 powder. As you can see, I started on the light side with my charges. Anyway, I can’t remove the spent primers! I have a Frankford Arsenal decapper, which has no problems depriming Hornady factory ammo with large rifle primers. But these small rifle primers are stuck big time. I squeezed the decapper’s handle so hard with both hands that I was afraid I’d break the decapping pin. Both loads ran fine in the rifle. Any suggestions? Thanks!