82 thoughts on “LNL-AP 45 ACP Part I (HD)”

  1. I got the sizing issue figured out.


    I now want all of my loads to come out exact on the powder. I am using the micrometer adjuster on the pistol rotor for my .45 ACP loads. I am using BP-38 at 6.0 grains. The powder drops vary from time to time on the powder cop die. I check the die and it seems to sometimes stick and sometimes it tells the truth. How can I ensure that my powder is dropping consistently all of the time? Is there a better powder measure out there etc?

  2. John- is that HP-38 you’re using (same as Winchester 231)? Are you using the rifle rotor, or the pistol rotor? Are you using a baffle in the powder measure? I’ve had great results with the Hornady powder measure.

  3. I am using the pistol rotor with the micrometer adjuster. Do tell if there is a secret of which to use for .45. Should I be using the rifle rotor? That is something I have not seen anywhere. It makes sense though due to the caliber size. Yes it is the same as the Win 231. My local store does not carry Win 231. They have Win wst though. I have had some difficulty using Varget for my Ar loads also metering well too.

  4. No specific secrets- in fact I get some of my best results with HP-38/W231. Varget meters well for me, but like any stick powder you’ll get some cutting of granules.

    When you weigh the charges, how much variation are you seeing?

  5. Sometimes .5 grains. Are you using the Pistol or Rifle rotor for .45 ACP? I have also experienced the rotor not making the full range on some cases. I am using the PTX for my .45 ACP loads so I am guessing that some cases may be a bit tighter than others. Another thing I have found is that the Powder Cop will not show correctly too. It will hang or stick in some cases. These are just observations.

    My next thing to sort through is the last primer in the tube not feeding out nicely. This is all a learning thing, but can get frustrating at times when you just want to make ammo and not futz around.

  6. Gavin,

    I have a question related to the Hornady 3 die set for pistols. I’ve read on your site and several others that the prefered crimp for auto pistol ammo is taper. However, as you show on your review of the Hornady new dimension dies the set comes with a combination seating and roll crimp die. Several persons have recommended using a separate taper crimp die but what happens with the seating/roll crimp die ? Can it be adjusted to disable the roll crimp ? Some have inferred that it can be adjusted to make a taper crimp instead. Not sure how much faith to put into this. Also, if I intended to have a separate taper crimp die and powder cop I believe I would run out of station space. Would the solution be to eliminate the expander die and use a powder tjrough expander ? Thanks for any input.

  7. Jeff,

    I have had my LNL for about 6 months now and love it. However, in the beginning there was quite a learning curve for me as I hadn’t reloaded in quite some time. First problem I experienced was the dies would work loose, especially the powder drop. I called Hornady and they sent me thin rings to install on the dies. Something like a lock ring. Problem settled. The next problem I experienced was the PTX. Just couldn’t get it to work quite right no matter how much I adjusted it. Finally purchased a Powder Funnel from powderfunnels.com for $25 and it works slick as anything. I reload 45 caliber 200 grain SWC form Laser Cast (Oregon Trail). The powder funnel tapers the casing to whatever size you want so any lead or wax deposit left on the casing is totally eliminated. Now, to your question: in the instructions for the New Dimension dies, page 4, it tells you how to seat the bullet “without” a crimp. Once the bullet is seated, you use a separate taper crimp die. You won’t run out of die space. First is sizing/decap die, next is the powder drop with the powder funnel (or Hornady PTX) next is the powder cop, next is seating die and then crimping die. You use all 5 stations. Works great. Just use some patience setting everything up. I reload for quality not quantity but can reload 300 bullets in about two and a half hours. (I’m probably slower than most) Also, use the little angled piece with holes that goes into the powder tube. I also spray some case lube on a cloth and roll my casings(50 at a time) around on the cloth. This helps with the sizing die. Not required but I find it helps.

    Hope this helps……Dave

  8. For Mike Williams:

    I had the same problem with 223 cases not activating the cutoff and backing up. I solved it by raising the case feeder up on the square red mounting bracket by about 1 inch and placing a spring clamp on the bracket to hold it there. The feeder tube has enough play to allow this vertical movement. The effect is that the 223 cases activate the reed switch toward the middle of the case instead of at the case neck.

    Hope this helps!


  9. Gavin:

    I have a Dillon XL 650 that I’ve been running for about 6,000 to 8,000 rounds now. It is a decent press but there are a number of things about it that have become an issue for me (issues with the primer system, spilled powder due to vibration, parts wearing out, etc.).

    A friend of mine has the Hornady LNL AP Press and really likes it. The reviews and ratings for this press are also nothing but excellent on Midway.com.

    Do you think the Hornady LNL AP is a better press than the XL 650? If you could only have one, which one would you choose?

  10. Gavin,

    I am looking to move up to a progresive press.I was looking at the lee but after reading some of the comments here it seems they are very hard to keep tunied up. I am now thinging hornady, their die set ups are awsome. One thing is the rubber gasget on their dies really a problem.Would be loading rifle and pistol a lot of pistol. there are lots of spelling mistakes here but spell checker not working and neither am I.

    Thanks for your thoughts, Del

        1. The priming sled would not pick up a primer either when I first set up my LNL. I loosened up the primer shroud tube a full turn and it works fine now.

  11. Darin, I had a lee Pro 1000 that I just sold. I still have 2 loadmasters 1 set for 9 and 1 for 45. I am thinking of changing to either the Hornady or the dillon 650. It looks like the Hornady may be a better machine but I want to know what the weak points arer on the 2 machines. I have found most of the problems on the Loadmasters and as long as I am slow and steady I have few problems. But when I want to automate a little more with a case feeder and bullet feeder the Loadmaster only has 4 stations and I feel I need 5 due to the last die being a taper crimp die. Do the Hornady and Dillons come better set up from the factory or do they take a lot of fiddling with to get right? I am looking forward to your answer.

  12. Gavin:
    I’ve been using the LNL AP (the newer version with EZ-ject) for about 2 years now. Since day one, I’ve been having a problem with the automatic case feeder case slide moving the cases over to the shell plate. With every caliber I’ve loaded (.380, 9mm, .40, .45, 5.7×28, .223, .308), the cases tip when they get to the spring just as they are about to enter the notch on the shell plate. I’ve tried new springs (many), making sure the spring is in the recessed channel below the shell plate, checking the spring height, wiping everything down very carefully, cleaning the shell plates, etc., all to no avail. I’ve gone over this multiple times with Hornady, and even sent the press back to them, which they returned to me stating they had fixed the problem. No dice. A friend with this press is having the same problem. In your videos, it looks as if the cases are sliding over very smoothly. Any ideas what could be causing this problem? Could it be the shell plates? Also, I just ordered your Hornady combo kit, which I’m looking forward to getting installed. Thanks for all that you do.

    1. I know this reply is years late but it’s for those who search for this case tipping and feeding issue. Basically you will want to adjust one of the pawls (bottom of the press…I think it’s the left one) to change the timing slightly so the slot in the shell plate aligns with the shell feeder. If things aren’t aligning properly like case feeding, cases getting deformed by edges of dies, not aligning with the primer etc, it is almost certainly a timing issue which requires adjustment of one of the pawls. One controls the timing on the down stroke and the other, the up stroke. Do no more than 1/4 turn at a time to zero in on the right positioning. Another fix if your shell plate is jerky and possibly spilling powder is to hit the 2 ball detents on the bottom of the shell plate with a punch/hammer so they’re sticking out only half as much.

  13. Gavin
    Great site. I have been lurking for about a year doing research on progressives and really gotten a lot from you site. Looking into getting a progressive press. I will eventually want to add a case feeder and a bullet feeder to the system when money permits. If start up costs were equal between a Dillon 650 and a Hornady L-N-L, I would welcome your opinion as to which one you would choose. Some areas of concern would be quality, maintenance, costs to change calibers and overall ease of use. You thoughts are appreciated.

  14. Hey Gavin can’t wait to see the Hornady bullet feeder in action. Have one on order with all the dies, seems to be back ordered. Must be having a hard time keeping up with production. == Bob ==

  15. Gavin: I just order a Hornady Press and will loading 9mm,40 and 45acp will i need any thing for the the powder system for Dif. cal ,and will lee Dies work in a hornady Press or do you need to use Hornady Dies.I had a lee master and did not like very much. Thanks mark

    1. Mark- there are a lot of setups that you can do (PTX expander to combine expanding and charging, etc).

      Lee dies will work- but the expander will need a plug because you won’t be using their powder measure. I made such a plug. Not sure if Lee sells such a thing…

      I would go with Hornady dies on that press personally. Add a Lee factory crimp die or Hornady taper crimp die for your auto calibers and you’re set!

  16. Gavin: In your video, you are using the #1 shell plate (as you mention in the caption), whereas Hornady sells and recommends the #45 shell plate for .45ACP.

    I just bought a LnL press, and the #45 shell plate is backordered with an expected delay of nearly a year (!), but I have ordered a #1 shell plate that should be here any day now.

    Have you seen a serious problem with using the #1 in this manner? I have read reviews that range from saying that the #1 shell plate lets the .45s hang up the press (requiring a disassembly) all the way up to saying that they’re fine as long as you get everything installed properly. Your video makes it look like there’s no problem at all with the #1.

    I’m just wondering how much trouble I can anticipate having by using the #1 until the #45 gets restocked sometime later this year.

  17. Thanks so much for all the hard work you do putting together the youtube vids. They helped guide this beginner into the realm of reloading. I just set up my new Hornady Classic kit and began with de-bulging and resizing 40S&W. I am using the lock n load bushings with the Hornady Sure-loc rings. I noticed when the ram is at the top of the stroke, the entire bushing with the die moves up just a hair then down when I extract the case. is this normal? I triple checked everything was tight and screwed down. Basically it seems the bushing has some ‘play’ in the press. Thanks

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