In this video, you will see how 30-06 ammunition is loaded with the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive reloading press. Loading rifle in a progressive fashion can greatly increase your production rate, if you don't need to clean your primer pockets. Progressive presses (with case feeders, as shown in this video) can also be great tools for single operations, such as depriming, depriming/sizing, priming, etc. Starting your reloading on a progressive and finishing on a turret or single stage press is another good option...
Video:
Click "HD" icon after playback starts to view in HDNote that using the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive reloading press is a great stand-alone option for loading rifle ammunition, but this press can also work well with the Hornady Lock-N-Load classic reloading press. By using the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive with the Hornady Lock-N-Load classic, you'll "double team" your setup, case prep, and reloading operations! Be sure to check out the Hornady Lock-N-Load classic calibration video as well to see how you can transfer dies between the Lock-N-Load classic and Lock-N-Load AP Progressive without adjustment!
Tags: 30-06, Hornady, LNL, Lock-N-Load, Progressive, Reloading, Rifle
Where did you get the bracket/bin mounted on the front of your press?
Would love to have one.
Thanks
Look at this site under “Products”.
Here’s a link:
http://ultimatereloader.com/?p=404
Great site, great how-to’s. I’ve reloaded rifle a while ago, and am going to get back into it. I’m shooting high volume (6.8 SPC) and loved the high rate of my progressive shotshell reloader, so I was looking at a Hornady AP. I’m not going to sacrifice accuracy for the speed of reloading, so how much more precise is a single-stage press over a progressive? Measureable, or negligible? Thanks for providing this service, keep it up, and start a classifieds page!
Dan- If you are very careful with your setup, and use good dies, you can come close with the progressive. I’d say you could hold COL within .003″ or so if you are really careful. Competition seating dies and careful die setup will make that possible.
Another thing to consider is how well the powder you will use will meter. Some stick powders (IMR 4350 for example) will not meter as consistently as you may like. I usually prefer to trickle those powders if I’m single stage or turret reloading, but if you can live with some variation, that’s not going to be a problem. The other approach is to pick a powder (such as Winchester 760 ball powder) that will meter more consistenly.
Hope this helps…
I am interested in what case lube is used, does it leave residue in the feeder tube, and why you don’t show the lube being wiped off after reloading?
I’ve tried different types of lube, and reccomend something with a thicker viscosity than spray on lubes. I use the RCBS case lube pad, or Imperial case sizing wax- usually the latter.
Yes, wiping off the lube is part of the job, but some times I can’t show everything because I want to keep the videos for these purposes down to a reasonable length
I just got one of these presses. I set it up correctly as far as I know. I started to load 223. Using once fired military brass. Which had already been sized and de-primed as well as polished and the primer pocket swaged. I was having quite a bit of trouble seating the primer. I was using CCI #41 Primers. When seating seamed like the side of the primer was getting smashed therefore making the primer not able to be seated. Would a fix for that be increasing the swage or is it something else? It also noticed that their was brass shaving in the primer seat and I had to clean it out every now and then. Please Help Thanks
Tyler- Let’s see if we can isolate the issue. Are you setup to load any other calibers? If you can load pistol ammo (small primer, such as 38 special, or 9mm) and don’t have the priming issue, then it’s likely your brass. If you do have the issue loading pistol, then your priming system needs tweaking…
If you’re not setup to load pistol or another small rifle primer cartridge, then I can give you some priming system troubleshooting tips.
Gavin: Do you have any feel for the Dillon xl 650 vs the Hornady LnL production rates when both are fitted with case feeders? Thanks. Larry
I’m new to reloading and purchased a Hornady LNL AP as well as the Dies for a 270 Win. What order should the dies and powder feeder be in to get the best results. Only 2 Dies come with the Hornady 270 Win New Dimension Set. Do I need more Dies?
Thanks, Chuck
Chuck- You’ll need the dies, and the proper shellplate (#1).
Here’s the order of the dies:
1. Size / deprime
2. Powder measure (top), prime (bottom)
3. Bullet seating (can move to 4 or 5 as well)
You don’t need more dies. Hope this helps!
Again I’m new to reloading and I purchased both the LNL AP and LNL classic and would like to use the Redding Dies with micrometers in both presses. I’ll be using the single stage classic for all until I get familiar with reloading. Assuming that I will calibrate the 2 presses, will Redding competion dies with micrometers work in either press?
Thanks, Chuck
Chuck- that should work fine. I just got some Redding competition dies, and I’ll let you know how they work – see http://ultimatereloader.com/?p=968 for more detail!