Sig Cross Handguard & Barrel Swap from Odin Works (Step-by-Step)

I recently showed a variety of ODIN Works upgrades to the SIG SAUER Cross rifle, including three different barrel swaps. I wanted to make another video to fully detail the handguard installation and barrel change process.

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Tools and Upgrades

I started with the basic SIG Cross model chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor (18” barrel) and added two of ODIN Works’ pre-fit barrels: 22 Creedmoor and 6 GT.

I also swapped the factory forend for ODIN Works’ TANGENT X 15.5” forend.

I had to remove the forend with each barrel swap, using the Wheeler Tools’ professional gunsmithing screwdriver set and professional armorer’s wrench to do so.

The Process

By the third time swapping the barrel, I had a process down. I started with the SIG Cross secured in a vise with the muzzle device and the bolt removed.

Next I unscrewed the scope rail, keeping the screws inside for safekeeping. There is a small spring under the scope rail—be careful not to lose it.

I removed it so that it wouldn’t fall out when I flipped the rifle over. After removing the scope rail, I unscrewed all six handguard screws— two on the top, four on the bottom.

I did not remove them in any particular order.

With the forend removed, I flipped the rifle right side up again, folded the buttstock out of the way, and ran the armorer’s over the barrel and over the barrel nut. Before applying any pressure, I inserted an ODIN Works action wrench so I could use opposing torque to my advantage.

It didn’t take much to crack the torque.

From here it was a matter of removing the barrel nut and old barrel.

I added some grease to the threads of the new barrel before reversing the process.

The one part I did differently was the handguard installation. I made each screw finger tight, then torqued them in sequence, each a little bit at a time.

When the handguard was properly torqued, I added the spring and scope rail, taking turns tightening the screws until I reached desired torque. (If you aren’t planning to swap barrels frequently, I recommend adding Loctite to these screws.)

Checking headspace is important after swapping a barrel. I didn’t have an appropriate no-go gauge, so I used a go gauge and added tape to bring it up to 0.004” – the length of a conventional no-go gauge.