Make Your Own Case Lube

Over the years, I’ve used quite a bit of spray lube for case sizing, most of the time Hornady One-Shot for pistol, and Dillon DCL for rifle. As my supply of Dillon DCL dwindled, I started looking at other options. Dillon DCL has worked well, but leaves a sticky residue that’s hard to wipe (or tumble) off the cases. Then I talked with the 6.5 guys who swore by (not at) their home brew lanolin case lube (a formula they found online if memory serves).

Per the 65guys instructions, I ordered the same components and spray bottles, and these worked out great:

As shown in the video, I found the following process to work well:

  • Draw a line marked “alcohol” 4″ up from the bottom of the spray bottle.
  • Draw a line marked “lanolin” .4″ up from the alcohol line.
  • Fill the bottle with 99% isopropyl alcohol up to the alcohol line.
  • Pour lanolin into the bottle until the fluid level is at the lanolin line.
  • Gently shake/tip to mix until there’s no lanolin at the bottom of the bottle.

That’s it! Your case lube is ready to use! Just put some brass in a bin, spray, re-arrange, spray again, then wait 5 minutes for a quick flash-dry. Hope you find this useful!

Anyone else out there using homemade lanolin case lube? Please share your experiences!


29 thoughts on “Make Your Own Case Lube”

    1. If I had allergies to lanolin, I would wear disposable nitrilel gloves, and be careful of any overspray. I would also wear a respirator that filters out particulates if need be.
      Hope this helps.


  1. Thanks for posting this and I will be trying it. However, the hyperlink takes you to the Amazon site for a single bottle of Alcohol. Here is the correct link to Amazon for the Alcohol 2 pack which is much cheaper than what the link in the blog takes you to. Why Amazon has the same product at widely different prices escapes me.

      1. Thanks for this tip and how to! My 300 win mag brass has never sized so easy! I was skeptical until I tried it and now this is all I use. Even works great on those tough 338 Lapua mags!

  2. I make my own lube – very similar to what you just presented. I can never find 99% Isopropyl, so I use Iso-heet which contains 98.5% Isopropyl alcohol. Works great, makes a lot and is just as good as commercial versions but for a lot less money per ounce.

  3. What is the downsize of using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol instead of 99% since 91% is typically available in local drug stores?

  4. I’ve been using homemade lanolin case lube for a couple of years now. It’s important to note that you want to get the 99% Isopropyl and not a lesser grade. The lower grades (70% is most common) have water in them which will make the case lube separate like oil and vinegar salad dressing. You will probably have to get the pharmacist to order it for you.
    I mix mine 4:1 and it only takes a little. I tried 10:1 but that lead to a stuck case.
    I put the cases, 100 at a time, in a 1 gal. zip lock bag and spray 2-3 squirts with the nozzle set to fine mist. Roll the cases around for a bit and then open the bag and let the alcohol evaporate for a couple of minutes. If you have lube puddled up in the bottom of the bag, you used too much. The proper amount is when the cases feel greasy, but don’t look greasy.

    If you’re using SS pins in your tumbler, wipe the cases off good before tumbling, otherwise they come out dull.

  5. What would be the impact of using 91% Isopropyl alcohol instead of 99% since it is available in my local drugstore?

    1. When spraying your cases how do you deal with lubing the inside of the necks and what is the best way to remove the lube after you’ve resized?

  6. A really good and fast way to lube cases…I mix 70% alcohol and lee case lube in a spray bottle…it dries very quickly and is water soluble which is important to me since I use a RCBS sidewinder tumbler and liquid media

  7. I have had great luck with RCBS Slick Spray lube, but have also followed the same recipe.

    I prefer using RCBS with a pad for lubing inside the necks, (I just put a liberal amount on the pad and push the neck into the pad to get it to lube the inside) Simple and pretty clean.
    I also use a spray or two of slick spray for pistol brass just to reduce the effort when sizing with carbide dies.
    Thanks for all the info.

    1. Shelf life is indefinite, but put in an airtight container. The alcohol will absorb water, and then it separates out.

  8. Is there any reason not to use denatured alcohol? I use that for cleaning electronics because it does not leave any residue.

  9. I mixed up a batch of this tonight just as described. 2/3 filled a gallon Ziploc bag with .308 and sprayed it 7 times then zipped the bag and tumbled them around. Those brass full length sized easier than anything I have ever done. The neck expander was also smoother than even with mica. I’m sold 10000% on this formula.

  10. I tried this and it works great! The only problem I had (most likely my error) is that even after a day or two, I would load powder into the cartridge and it would stick to the casing where the bullet was to be seated. My digital scale would sometimes require me to empty the case of powder and measure that the scale was giving an accurate reading. Regardless, this case lube is what I’m going to be using. Like I said, it works great!

  11. I tumble clean my cases with SS pins,water, Dawn, finish rinse aid and, as of late, a tablespoon of cream of tarter.
    To size I use the recipe above then swirl the cases in acetone in a topped, plastic cashew container followed by air drying.
    When dry I trim and polish in a mix of corn cob and walnut media with Nu Finish car polish.

    1. The problem with any type of “food” based oil like seed oils, canola, corn, vegetable, and the like is that over time they can go rancid which is not the case with lanolin. Lanolin is produced by sheep in their sebaceous glands as a protectant and conditioner for their wool. Interesting recipe and works very well!!!

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