In this article I’ll build on my last post which listed all of the items that you’ll need to start reloading rifle ammunition.
Here are some additional resources here on Ultimate Reloader that will help you get off the ground reloading:
Hornady Case Prep Center
- Hornady Case Prep Center – Rifle – Part II
- Hornady Case Prep Center – Rifle – Part I
- Hornady Case Prep Center Overview
AR-MPR Phase II: Precision Loading and Accurizing
- AR-MPR: Phase II Redding Equipment Overview
- AR-MPR: Phase II Hornady Equipment Overview
- AR-MPR: Phase II – Determining Max COL with OAL Gage
- AR-MPR: Phase II – Sizing Depriming Priming .223 Remington
- AR-MPR: Phase II – Rifle Accurizing Plans
- AR-MPR: Phase II – Charging Cases with the Redding 3-BR and Hornady Auto Charge
- AR-MPR: Phase II – Magpul PRS Stock and XTM Rail Panels Install
- AR-MPR Phase II – Seating Bullets
- AR-MPR Phase II – Checking and Correcting Bullet Concentricity
AR-308 Precision Loading
- AR-308 – Brass and Brass Prep Basics
- AR-308 – Precision Loading Pt. 1 – Case sizing and trimming
- AR-308 – Precision Loading Pt. 2 – Case Neck Thickness and Uniformity
- AR-308 – Precision Loading Pt. 3 – Priming and Charging Cases
- AR-308 – Precision Loading Pt. 4 – Seating Bullets Checking Concentricity
Happy shopping and loading!
-Gavin
Hi Gavin, got a question here. I’ve been reloading for many years but now I’ll be loading for the .338 Lapua, this is the first time I’ve ever used brand new brass. What is the recommended sequence as far as case trimming is concerned, trim first then resize or resize and then trim? I should add that since I’m using a bolt gun my intention was to neck size after the initial firings s the cases will bee fire formed to the chamber.
Thanks!! Kevin in CT
Kevin- you typically don’t need to size brand new brass, but many handloaders do so just for peace of mind. What brand of brass are you using?