Thanks! I just bent a piece of acoustic ceiling suspension wire to fit in the case insertion block and measured the distance when the block was in the rotated position. Coat hanger wire would work just fine! Perhaps I’ll add a drawing to this section of the website.
Thanks for your videos, they are really great and very informative.
I would like to ask the following. Before loading the cases into the Dillon 650, I presumed that the cases have been cleaned (in a tumbler) and lubricated.
Beforehand, do I also have to trim, chamfer and debur the cases?
Ti- Yes, I tumble my cases in ground walnut shells or corncob media, sometimes with some brasso mixed in. I then use lube on all cases that I load. With carbide pistol dies you don’t have to, but it makes the press run much smoother.
For pistol loads you usually do not need to trim/chamfer/debur. You can trim and prep pistol brass if you find it to be inconsistent in length or excessive in length, but that’s not usually the case (for mixed headstamp you may find enough variation to trim if you demand tight tolerances on length).
Brasso? I understand that Brasso contains ammonia, which tends to make brass brittle. I’ve always heard that Brasso should never be used in any reloading case cleaning processes. Please double check (research) your case cleaning process if using any ammonia-based cleaning agents to be sure it’s safe. I use Flitz, or NuFinish car polish in a pinch. Both will clean brass brilliantly, and very quickly with no ammonia or residue. My 2 cents.
Thanks for all your videos. There’s something to be said about higher resolution videos and this type of thing…
I’m newer to reloading. I started about three months back and don’t think I’ll be shooting factory ammo any time soon. I shoot a lot of semi-auto guns and given my lack of experience, I thought I’d start off right with a single stage press. At this point, I’ve loaded a couple thousand rounds of 223 and a thousand or so 40 S&W. The results have been fantastic, however, I think it’s time for me to move on to a progressive press. Most of the 223 I shoot gets slammed out of an AR as fast as it can shoot it and it doesn’t need to be match grade accurate.
That being said, there are a number of great looking progressive presses out there. I’ve watched most if not all of your progressive press videos and yet I lack any hands on experience with one. Of all the presses you’ve used, which would you recommend the most for quality and ease of use? Budget isn’t really a factor in my decision. The volume of ammo I’m shooting negates most of the cost issues. I’m leaning toward a XL-650 but thought I should ask someone before spending the money. Given your experience with so many progressive presses, you seem to be the best person to ask.
You have already answered you question. I have a Dillon 550B and a Newer 650. I use the 550 for the .38sp/357, 9mm, 30-06…
While I use the 650 for the 40 S&W and 223 Rem. For the simple reason is that i have 100 times more brass for those calibers than the ones for the 550B.
Dillon ROCKS. The 550B is a manual progressive and loads PERFECT 30-06 rounds. less than .5 MOA in 5 shot groups with a 165 gr boat tail.
I know others are good presses, but the Dillon with their NO BS warrantee can not be beat.
When using the Mr. Bullet feeder with cast bullets be certain to dust the bullets with mica to eliminate the tackiness of the bullet lube. The Mr. Bullet feeder feeds rifle or pistol bullets like a champ.
I am absolutely impressed with the concept and flow through of your site. A great idea exicuted professionally. I would be interested in seeing extensive videos on shot shell loading machines and also bullet casting equipment. I can imagine you are very busy but if you find some spare time these new subjects would inhance your stellar site even more.
Thank for doing all you have.
I would like to see some videos of the Super 1050, And I’m under the Impression that Brasso is bad for you tumbler because it weakens the brass cases. What are your thoughts on that?
Metallic Auto-Drive Electric System for the 1050 or 650 dillion reloaders. my question to you is, has anyone had any problem with this auto modification to the dillion system. also are the rounds consitance? It looks to me that the primers my not seat properly with the motor. A test of the setup is not on the net that I can find.
Any help in this would help, they are charging $895 for the modification at http://reloaders.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=71.
Let me know if you find any real data.
Thanks
Alan
1) Could you show a setup and operation using all auto atachments at once on the 650. (electronic powder check, case feeder, RCBS bullet feeder, auto primer feeder) loading 38/357 pistol. What die setup do you need to use and the set up of the dies. I have watched your 650 vidios so if you can’t show a vidio anytime soon can you give me a good explanation. (I am new to reloading)
2) I seem to like the hornady auto powder system better than the dillion. Can you give me your opinion and why. Can I use the Hornady powder system on the Dillion loader?
I saw you load a live round in a 1911 to test feeding, this is an extremely dangerous practice! There is always the possibility of an accidental discharge when chambering a round in an auto pistol, I have had it happen to me.
In my case the safety on the pistol could be on when chambering a round, one day I did exactly as you did, chambered a live round to test feeding, pistol safety on, finger off the trigger, when I chambered the round the pistol discharged! I have the (patched) bullet hole in the wall to prove it! When I chambered the round, the hammer dropped and the safety popped off and the pistol discharged, I don’t know why it did that, I have tried to duplicate what happened (unloaded) over a hundred times and have not been able to repeat what happened that day, no apparent fault with the pistol could be found, the accident is unexplained, but if it hadn’t been pointed in a safe direction it could have had a terrible outcome.
Since you were using a 1911 I will relate another experience with a 1911, to load a round the safety cannot be on, I had a 1911 that started dropping the hammer when the slide was worked to load a round, I made up a special test round that would feed with a live primer and the primer discharged under that condition, the pistol had a mechanical problem and was repaired.
I’m a former LEO and in most law enforcement agencies they have a safe loading box or tube, when chambering a round into an auto pistol the barrel is put into the safety device to make sure that if a accidental discharge occurs when loading the bullet will be caught safely, I keep a 5 gal bucket filled with sand at home to use when I need to chamber a round in a pistol, but to check rounds for feeding I always make up dummy rounds, no powder or primer for that purpose, the lack of any primer identifies the test rounds so they won’t be confused with live ammo.
First of all great videos, very well done! I just watched the Dillon xl650 Video and I am getting back into handloading after being out a while. Watching the video I notice you have your press set up on what appears to be a pedestal mount similar to what Dillon is marketing for their .50 BMG press. If so, where did you find this pedestal? It would be great if you could perhaps offer an video of your setup. Can you provide more info on your bench as well? I have been looking at building or perhaps purchasing a custom bench with a laminated Maple top. I like your setup as it appears to be constructed with square tubing.
I am looking to upgrade from my Lee Classic to a full out Prog machine…Once set up with accurate powder dumps and OAL how often do you spot check a Dillon? I know w my LCT I am checking every 15-20 pulls a random bullet and while the powder charge varies minimally the OAL moves around too much for my tasyes ,mainly because the turret itself has way too much play in it,while these higher end progs have zero movement on there turrets of die plates….I am Defo wanting more reload speed which is why its time for the upgrade
Can you comment at all on the life expectancy on the hopper’s motor for the 650? I find it odd that they use the same switch as both a limit switch, and cut off switch, essentially shutting the motor off, and then restarting it again for a split second each time a case passes thru. This cannot be good for the motor. Any idea how long they last?
Excellent job man! I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
I want a progressive press for high volume and frequent caliber changes. What do you think about the Hornady LNL AP Progressive vs the Dillon Precision 650XL? Is the Dillon worth the extra money?
I had a stack of primers blow off in my XL-650. The good thing is that the primer tube contained the blast and directed it upwards towards the ceiling. The bad thing is that it expanded the primer tube, ruining it. When I talked with the Dillon rep for a replacement primer tube he asked what kind of primers I had been using. I told him Federal Match. He suggested using CCI as they have a harder cup and are less likely to light off with handling.
In retrospect, what happened was a primer entered the priming disc cocked, at an angle. The primer did not seat in the disc, and when I pulled the handle the next time, the disc indexes with the primer sticking up part of the way out of the disk. The primer collided with the disk housing, ignited, and then that explosion started a chain reaction in the string of primers in the primer tube.
To fix this, I used a 60° countersink and put a very slight chamfer on each of the holes in the primer disk. This permits the primers (even ones cocked at an angle) to enter the holes and straighten themselves out as gravity pulls them down into position in the disk. I now use CCI primers exclusively and have never had the problem repeat itself.
Mandatory: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES at all times. Optional: Keep a clean pair of underwear close by.
Gregory Spear says:
July 16, 2010 “And I’m under the Impression that Brasso is bad for you tumbler because it weakens the brass cases. What are your thoughts on that?”
I am a metallurgist, and I concur with this opinion. Brasso contains ammonia. Highly worked brass is susceptible to stress corrosion cracking in the presence of ammonia. This mechanism needs two criteria to work. 1) There has to be sufficient residual stress in the brass; 2) There has to be a corrosive agent – the ammonia. Stress in the brass comes from shooting, and reloading (sizing) of the cases.
If anyone doubts this, think back to the 60’s when blonde furniture was all the rage. Most of this furniture had tapered legs with little brass cups on the ends of the legs for decoration. Invariably, the cups were split and cracked. The swelling of the wood provided the stress, and the ammonia was present in the polish spray that people used to shine up their furniture. It was then only a matter of time before the stress corrosion cracking mechanism took over and split the brass cups.
If you are going to tumble your brass with a polishing agent, use a product that was intended for that application. This is not an area to be playing junior chemist/metallurgist.
Like everyone else has said; stellar setup here. Glad I came and checked out the website. I had a quesiton about bullet feeders. to use on my xl650.
Do you have a recommendation as to which is best? Hornady…RCBS…GSI? The goal is for 45acp and .223.
I’ve seen your vids useing the RCBS. I’ve heard of the pins breaking effectivly stopping the feeding process until you get a new one and I’ve also read that the bevel that is necessary to make it work is too excessive and wears your brass too fast. Have you experienced any of this?
Lastly, Your bullet seating die seems to have a spring loaded entrance. What brand is that?…and do you recommend it.
Sorry for all the questions…my loving wife bought me a 650 for Christmas. Was loading my 45 with Lyman turret.
Ok love your vids they are great and very helpful.Been reloading since the 60s all kinds of cal.After watching all the vids I could find on Bulletfeeders I orderd a RCBS in 22 for my ARs and when it got here its not like any that I saw on the vids.I use a Dillon 650 with all Dillon equipment and the Bulletfeeder is designed to work with a RCBS poder disp not a Dillon they wont line up.Do you have and Ideas on what I can do
Thanks Richard
i’m interested in reloading 300 BLK on my XL-650. What would you advise as the best way to approach this? also, i’ve heard you can use 223 or 5.56 cases for 300 BLK reloads. if true, how would that work?
Yes, but with a bullet feeder, I always recommend using a powder check system of some kind due to the increased speed. When using this type of system, you also won’t be hand placing bullets, which is when I normally look down in the case to visually inspect the powder level.
Gavin, how much did your round count increase with the bullet feeder on the 650? i am interested in getting one, which one would you recommend? thank you
would love to see a review of the dillon 550b, i hear alot about this press and i am curious about different die set-ups and could a rcbs lock out be used?
The 550b is a four station press. !. Size/deprime 2. Prime/powder drop 3. Bullet seat and 4. Bullet crimp. No station for the lock-out or powder check die to be used, UNLESS you combine steps 3 and 4 as station 4 and put the lock-out in station 3.
However, this basically negates the Dillon idea of separation of seating and crimping as separate steps. I have never tried this myself, possibly because I have absolute confidence in the Dillon PM dropping an accurate charge of powder.
i use an RCBS lock out die on my 550b, works great, i have one on my Hornady LNL and am very pleased with it, it gives me peace of mind, i know that if you carefully look into each case…….
the lock out die just takes me out of the equation, i still look in the cases but i know if i miss something, it will catch it
i liked it so much that when i got my 550 i put one on it, i use RCBS dies and seat and crimp in station 4
i have always seated and crimped in one station and have never had trouble,
i would like to see Untimate Reloader do some videos on the 550b
Wow, I’m impressed by all the information regarding bullet feeders for the XL 650. Is there a clear favorite bullet feeder? I’ll be using the bullet feeder for mainly 9mm Luger and .223 Rem.
Thank you! Michael
oh i second this!!!! i would love to see a 550b in action in your shop since i believe that that press is another primier reloader, if you got the money, i would love to see a vid of it!!
Modern progressive presses have the powder measure actuated by the case. Thus, if no case is present, no powder drops. OTOH, older progressives like the Star will drop powder with each pull of the handle.
there steps you missed you make it seem like you just put powder in and start you going to get someone killed if your going to make a video do it right
Bob from Woodinville Wa here. I just bought a used Dillon SBD and have found virtually no videos on how to set up and adjust dies. It came set up for .45ACP and works fine. I bought it with extra tool heads dies and conversions for .40 and 9mm but have struggled to find good info on how to adjust the dies. For example do you just screw the crimp die all the way in? I tried that and it seems ok but not sure. I learned on a Lee Classic Turret and adjustments are very straight forward and lots of videos avail (especially yours thanks).
Perhaps you could shoot a video to help? Heck I know you are nearby and could even voluteer mine to use if that would help.
Gavin, I’m a frequent viewer of your site and appreciate all the details you cover…. I have a question regarding the Dillon XL 650 press…
I recently moved and took great care when moving the press…after setting it up in my new home I began reloading 45 ACP shells… right off the bat I started having trouble getting the primers to seat or align properly with the case… something is out of sinc…. I’ve looked at the DVD however there are no trouble shooting tips…. with all the talk of gun control and people getting there gear in order, the wait on the phone at dillon is an hour…
any thoughts or tips…. I’ve viewed your “how to” on 45 acp but really could use your help….
need some help between the Dillon 1050 and hronady lock n load seen a few videos with people have a lot of trouble with the lock n load not working right but i like the system i also here really good things about the Dillon as well
What is the required “footprint” for a dillion xl650 with strong mount and case feeder? In other words how much width, depth and height do I need to have on my work bench. I concerned about some shelving above my bench interfering with the case feeder.
I am interested in knowing the “footprint” for the Dillon XL650 as well. I have a single stage RCBS rock chucker I use for precision LR rifle loads (mostly 7mm Rem Mag). I am getting a Dillon XL650 for pistol reloading (9mm and 45 ACP) for IDPA shooting. Just built another bench for pistol station.
I have to say the most informative videos I have ever seen!!!..well done sir !!..I have been reloading for over 23 years now, pistol, than shotgun, now rifle all on a lee single stage and a lee pro 1000. And just recently a lee load all. 12 gauge. My pro 1000 was for my 45 acp but since sold my colt 1911 (big mistake!)..I have been looking for a new progressive press and with your help narrowed it to 2 choices, the diilon xl 650 or rcbs pro 2000 auto !!..I can not make up my mind!!! Dammit!!!!I would be loading for 6 different calibers…I love the priming of the rcbs, but I also like the accessories of the dillon!!anyway one of my big questions beside all this is the way you mounted the different presses on your videos some kind of custom made steel mount??? Your presses hardly moved during operation!!.. Do you have specs for them???
Alex, yes. The Dillon progressive presses can load most any standard pistol as well as rifle caliber. If you have (standard size) dies for it (Lee, RCBS, Hornady, and my personal favoriates – Redding) they should work. I actually use mostly Redding Dies with Lees locking nuts.
I really like you case feed shut off. Can you tell me what the size of it is and what you made it out of. Thanks David…
Here’s a link to the Hornady stand:
http://ultimatereloader.com/?p=826
I’m basically using that stand with an adapter (drill/tap for XL-650 mounts, and you’re good to go…
Thanks! I just bent a piece of acoustic ceiling suspension wire to fit in the case insertion block and measured the distance when the block was in the rotated position. Coat hanger wire would work just fine! Perhaps I’ll add a drawing to this section of the website.
I would like to see a picture of the wire inserted in the press. Please!
Dimensions would be nice as well.
Hi,
Thanks for your videos, they are really great and very informative.
I would like to ask the following. Before loading the cases into the Dillon 650, I presumed that the cases have been cleaned (in a tumbler) and lubricated.
Beforehand, do I also have to trim, chamfer and debur the cases?
Thanks in advance for the information.
Regards,
Ti
Ti- Yes, I tumble my cases in ground walnut shells or corncob media, sometimes with some brasso mixed in. I then use lube on all cases that I load. With carbide pistol dies you don’t have to, but it makes the press run much smoother.
For pistol loads you usually do not need to trim/chamfer/debur. You can trim and prep pistol brass if you find it to be inconsistent in length or excessive in length, but that’s not usually the case (for mixed headstamp you may find enough variation to trim if you demand tight tolerances on length).
Brasso? I understand that Brasso contains ammonia, which tends to make brass brittle. I’ve always heard that Brasso should never be used in any reloading case cleaning processes. Please double check (research) your case cleaning process if using any ammonia-based cleaning agents to be sure it’s safe. I use Flitz, or NuFinish car polish in a pinch. Both will clean brass brilliantly, and very quickly with no ammonia or residue. My 2 cents.
Brasso also has a very very low flashpoint..
First off,
Thanks for all your videos. There’s something to be said about higher resolution videos and this type of thing…
I’m newer to reloading. I started about three months back and don’t think I’ll be shooting factory ammo any time soon. I shoot a lot of semi-auto guns and given my lack of experience, I thought I’d start off right with a single stage press. At this point, I’ve loaded a couple thousand rounds of 223 and a thousand or so 40 S&W. The results have been fantastic, however, I think it’s time for me to move on to a progressive press. Most of the 223 I shoot gets slammed out of an AR as fast as it can shoot it and it doesn’t need to be match grade accurate.
That being said, there are a number of great looking progressive presses out there. I’ve watched most if not all of your progressive press videos and yet I lack any hands on experience with one. Of all the presses you’ve used, which would you recommend the most for quality and ease of use? Budget isn’t really a factor in my decision. The volume of ammo I’m shooting negates most of the cost issues. I’m leaning toward a XL-650 but thought I should ask someone before spending the money. Given your experience with so many progressive presses, you seem to be the best person to ask.
Hope you can help,
-Matt
You have already answered you question. I have a Dillon 550B and a Newer 650. I use the 550 for the .38sp/357, 9mm, 30-06…
While I use the 650 for the 40 S&W and 223 Rem. For the simple reason is that i have 100 times more brass for those calibers than the ones for the 550B.
Dillon ROCKS. The 550B is a manual progressive and loads PERFECT 30-06 rounds. less than .5 MOA in 5 shot groups with a 165 gr boat tail.
I know others are good presses, but the Dillon with their NO BS warrantee can not be beat.
Can you test it for us?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JTtlcg99OA&feature=related
Oliver- that sounds like a great idea, that and the “Mr. Bullet Feeder”. I’ll put that in my list of ideas for product videos.
Thanks!
When using the Mr. Bullet feeder with cast bullets be certain to dust the bullets with mica to eliminate the tackiness of the bullet lube. The Mr. Bullet feeder feeds rifle or pistol bullets like a champ.
Primer Filler which is the best? What can you recommend?
This?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrI1rhG1Nao&feature=related
I am absolutely impressed with the concept and flow through of your site. A great idea exicuted professionally. I would be interested in seeing extensive videos on shot shell loading machines and also bullet casting equipment. I can imagine you are very busy but if you find some spare time these new subjects would inhance your stellar site even more.
Thank for doing all you have.
I would like to see some videos of the Super 1050, And I’m under the Impression that Brasso is bad for you tumbler because it weakens the brass cases. What are your thoughts on that?
Good stuff! (I have a Dillon Square deal sitting in the attic. Taking a look at this makes me want to get it down and put it to work.)
Thanks!
Metallic Auto-Drive Electric System for the 1050 or 650 dillion reloaders. my question to you is, has anyone had any problem with this auto modification to the dillion system. also are the rounds consitance? It looks to me that the primers my not seat properly with the motor. A test of the setup is not on the net that I can find.
Any help in this would help, they are charging $895 for the modification at http://reloaders.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=71.
Let me know if you find any real data.
Thanks
Alan
1) Could you show a setup and operation using all auto atachments at once on the 650. (electronic powder check, case feeder, RCBS bullet feeder, auto primer feeder) loading 38/357 pistol. What die setup do you need to use and the set up of the dies. I have watched your 650 vidios so if you can’t show a vidio anytime soon can you give me a good explanation. (I am new to reloading)
2) I seem to like the hornady auto powder system better than the dillion. Can you give me your opinion and why. Can I use the Hornady powder system on the Dillion loader?
I saw you load a live round in a 1911 to test feeding, this is an extremely dangerous practice! There is always the possibility of an accidental discharge when chambering a round in an auto pistol, I have had it happen to me.
In my case the safety on the pistol could be on when chambering a round, one day I did exactly as you did, chambered a live round to test feeding, pistol safety on, finger off the trigger, when I chambered the round the pistol discharged! I have the (patched) bullet hole in the wall to prove it! When I chambered the round, the hammer dropped and the safety popped off and the pistol discharged, I don’t know why it did that, I have tried to duplicate what happened (unloaded) over a hundred times and have not been able to repeat what happened that day, no apparent fault with the pistol could be found, the accident is unexplained, but if it hadn’t been pointed in a safe direction it could have had a terrible outcome.
Since you were using a 1911 I will relate another experience with a 1911, to load a round the safety cannot be on, I had a 1911 that started dropping the hammer when the slide was worked to load a round, I made up a special test round that would feed with a live primer and the primer discharged under that condition, the pistol had a mechanical problem and was repaired.
I’m a former LEO and in most law enforcement agencies they have a safe loading box or tube, when chambering a round into an auto pistol the barrel is put into the safety device to make sure that if a accidental discharge occurs when loading the bullet will be caught safely, I keep a 5 gal bucket filled with sand at home to use when I need to chamber a round in a pistol, but to check rounds for feeding I always make up dummy rounds, no powder or primer for that purpose, the lack of any primer identifies the test rounds so they won’t be confused with live ammo.
First of all great videos, very well done! I just watched the Dillon xl650 Video and I am getting back into handloading after being out a while. Watching the video I notice you have your press set up on what appears to be a pedestal mount similar to what Dillon is marketing for their .50 BMG press. If so, where did you find this pedestal? It would be great if you could perhaps offer an video of your setup. Can you provide more info on your bench as well? I have been looking at building or perhaps purchasing a custom bench with a laminated Maple top. I like your setup as it appears to be constructed with square tubing.
Thanks, Paul
Can you please tell me what metal stand you are using on the XL 650.
Thank you..
I am looking to upgrade from my Lee Classic to a full out Prog machine…Once set up with accurate powder dumps and OAL how often do you spot check a Dillon? I know w my LCT I am checking every 15-20 pulls a random bullet and while the powder charge varies minimally the OAL moves around too much for my tasyes ,mainly because the turret itself has way too much play in it,while these higher end progs have zero movement on there turrets of die plates….I am Defo wanting more reload speed which is why its time for the upgrade
Can you comment at all on the life expectancy on the hopper’s motor for the 650? I find it odd that they use the same switch as both a limit switch, and cut off switch, essentially shutting the motor off, and then restarting it again for a split second each time a case passes thru. This cannot be good for the motor. Any idea how long they last?
You know that’s a good question- I haven’t heard of any failures….
Bonjour Gavin,
how do you like the Taurus 45ACP? Looking at one next week. Any advice?
Gavin,
Excellent job man! I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
I want a progressive press for high volume and frequent caliber changes. What do you think about the Hornady LNL AP Progressive vs the Dillon Precision 650XL? Is the Dillon worth the extra money?
I had a stack of primers blow off in my XL-650. The good thing is that the primer tube contained the blast and directed it upwards towards the ceiling. The bad thing is that it expanded the primer tube, ruining it. When I talked with the Dillon rep for a replacement primer tube he asked what kind of primers I had been using. I told him Federal Match. He suggested using CCI as they have a harder cup and are less likely to light off with handling.
In retrospect, what happened was a primer entered the priming disc cocked, at an angle. The primer did not seat in the disc, and when I pulled the handle the next time, the disc indexes with the primer sticking up part of the way out of the disk. The primer collided with the disk housing, ignited, and then that explosion started a chain reaction in the string of primers in the primer tube.
To fix this, I used a 60° countersink and put a very slight chamfer on each of the holes in the primer disk. This permits the primers (even ones cocked at an angle) to enter the holes and straighten themselves out as gravity pulls them down into position in the disk. I now use CCI primers exclusively and have never had the problem repeat itself.
Mandatory: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES at all times. Optional: Keep a clean pair of underwear close by.
Gregory Spear says:
July 16, 2010 “And I’m under the Impression that Brasso is bad for you tumbler because it weakens the brass cases. What are your thoughts on that?”
I am a metallurgist, and I concur with this opinion. Brasso contains ammonia. Highly worked brass is susceptible to stress corrosion cracking in the presence of ammonia. This mechanism needs two criteria to work. 1) There has to be sufficient residual stress in the brass; 2) There has to be a corrosive agent – the ammonia. Stress in the brass comes from shooting, and reloading (sizing) of the cases.
If anyone doubts this, think back to the 60’s when blonde furniture was all the rage. Most of this furniture had tapered legs with little brass cups on the ends of the legs for decoration. Invariably, the cups were split and cracked. The swelling of the wood provided the stress, and the ammonia was present in the polish spray that people used to shine up their furniture. It was then only a matter of time before the stress corrosion cracking mechanism took over and split the brass cups.
If you are going to tumble your brass with a polishing agent, use a product that was intended for that application. This is not an area to be playing junior chemist/metallurgist.
how is your press mounted to your bench? Did you mount it to a piece of boxtube and recess cut a square in the front of your bench?
I constructed a steel pedestal, you can read about it here: (plans included, I made an additional adapter for the XL-650):
http://ultimatereloader.com/2010/01/20/lock-n-load-steel-stand-pedestal-plans-available/
Like everyone else has said; stellar setup here. Glad I came and checked out the website. I had a quesiton about bullet feeders. to use on my xl650.
Do you have a recommendation as to which is best? Hornady…RCBS…GSI? The goal is for 45acp and .223.
I’ve seen your vids useing the RCBS. I’ve heard of the pins breaking effectivly stopping the feeding process until you get a new one and I’ve also read that the bevel that is necessary to make it work is too excessive and wears your brass too fast. Have you experienced any of this?
Lastly, Your bullet seating die seems to have a spring loaded entrance. What brand is that?…and do you recommend it.
Sorry for all the questions…my loving wife bought me a 650 for Christmas. Was loading my 45 with Lyman turret.
Thank you!
Ok love your vids they are great and very helpful.Been reloading since the 60s all kinds of cal.After watching all the vids I could find on Bulletfeeders I orderd a RCBS in 22 for my ARs and when it got here its not like any that I saw on the vids.I use a Dillon 650 with all Dillon equipment and the Bulletfeeder is designed to work with a RCBS poder disp not a Dillon they wont line up.Do you have and Ideas on what I can do
Thanks Richard
300 BLK on my XL-650
i’m interested in reloading 300 BLK on my XL-650. What would you advise as the best way to approach this? also, i’ve heard you can use 223 or 5.56 cases for 300 BLK reloads. if true, how would that work?
As always, thanks for your amazing advice!
Hi Guys,
Have you trialled or heard of anyone using the new Hornady bullet feeder with an XL650 Dilllon press?
Do you think the Mr Bulletfeeder unit is worth the extra money over the RCBS bullet feeder?
Thanks for any advice.
Dave from Australia
Gavin, can you use the bullet feeder in station 3 instead of the powder check that way station 4 and 5 can be separate seat and crimp die’s?
Yes, but with a bullet feeder, I always recommend using a powder check system of some kind due to the increased speed. When using this type of system, you also won’t be hand placing bullets, which is when I normally look down in the case to visually inspect the powder level.
Gavin, how much did your round count increase with the bullet feeder on the 650? i am interested in getting one, which one would you recommend? thank you
which types of dies use in this video ?
Hi Gavin, im from Argentina, i have a Hornady LNL AP and im just wondering if the dillon is better, and witch model? thanx…
(im only loading high quality IPSC ammo on this press)
Hi Gavin,
Nice website do you have, good information! I have also the Dillon XL650 in .45 ACP and .357MAG for reloading IPSC ammo.
Greets from Amsterdam, Holland!
Maickel
How about demo/reviews of the SquaredealB and the RL 550B? Both are viable choices for folks moving to progressive presses.
Thanks
Bob
would love to see a review of the dillon 550b, i hear alot about this press and i am curious about different die set-ups and could a rcbs lock out be used?
thanks really enjoy the vids
tim
The 550b is a four station press. !. Size/deprime 2. Prime/powder drop 3. Bullet seat and 4. Bullet crimp. No station for the lock-out or powder check die to be used, UNLESS you combine steps 3 and 4 as station 4 and put the lock-out in station 3.
However, this basically negates the Dillon idea of separation of seating and crimping as separate steps. I have never tried this myself, possibly because I have absolute confidence in the Dillon PM dropping an accurate charge of powder.
dd
i use an RCBS lock out die on my 550b, works great, i have one on my Hornady LNL and am very pleased with it, it gives me peace of mind, i know that if you carefully look into each case…….
the lock out die just takes me out of the equation, i still look in the cases but i know if i miss something, it will catch it
i liked it so much that when i got my 550 i put one on it, i use RCBS dies and seat and crimp in station 4
i have always seated and crimped in one station and have never had trouble,
i would like to see Untimate Reloader do some videos on the 550b
Wow, I’m impressed by all the information regarding bullet feeders for the XL 650. Is there a clear favorite bullet feeder? I’ll be using the bullet feeder for mainly 9mm Luger and .223 Rem.
Thank you! Michael
Gavin, Will you be doing any reviews on the Dillon RL 550B reloader? Need your help
making the right choice in a progressive reloader.
Thank you! Dave
oh i second this!!!! i would love to see a 550b in action in your shop since i believe that that press is another primier reloader, if you got the money, i would love to see a vid of it!!
When validating how do you prevent the powder from spilling out when a case is not set at that die station?
Modern progressive presses have the powder measure actuated by the case. Thus, if no case is present, no powder drops. OTOH, older progressives like the Star will drop powder with each pull of the handle.
Hope this helps.
dd
Will a dillon case feeder work on a hornady auto progressive ap. ps where do i find your answers
Gavin
i too would like you to review the 550b
thanks
great job on all the vids
there steps you missed you make it seem like you just put powder in and start you going to get someone killed if your going to make a video do it right
Do you really think a total noob is going to go out and buy an $800.00 PG pour powder in it and just start reloading?
Bob from Woodinville Wa here. I just bought a used Dillon SBD and have found virtually no videos on how to set up and adjust dies. It came set up for .45ACP and works fine. I bought it with extra tool heads dies and conversions for .40 and 9mm but have struggled to find good info on how to adjust the dies. For example do you just screw the crimp die all the way in? I tried that and it seems ok but not sure. I learned on a Lee Classic Turret and adjustments are very straight forward and lots of videos avail (especially yours thanks).
Perhaps you could shoot a video to help? Heck I know you are nearby and could even voluteer mine to use if that would help.
Thanks
Bob
Bob- I have the goal to cover more Dillon equipment- and thanks for your offer! I’ll contact you directly.
Gavin, I’m a frequent viewer of your site and appreciate all the details you cover…. I have a question regarding the Dillon XL 650 press…
I recently moved and took great care when moving the press…after setting it up in my new home I began reloading 45 ACP shells… right off the bat I started having trouble getting the primers to seat or align properly with the case… something is out of sinc…. I’ve looked at the DVD however there are no trouble shooting tips…. with all the talk of gun control and people getting there gear in order, the wait on the phone at dillon is an hour…
any thoughts or tips…. I’ve viewed your “how to” on 45 acp but really could use your help….
thanks JB
Bob,
Dillon will send you a SDB manual if you call em.
It may help you quite a bit..
Dillonprecision.com
need some help between the Dillon 1050 and hronady lock n load seen a few videos with people have a lot of trouble with the lock n load not working right but i like the system i also here really good things about the Dillon as well
What is the required “footprint” for a dillion xl650 with strong mount and case feeder? In other words how much width, depth and height do I need to have on my work bench. I concerned about some shelving above my bench interfering with the case feeder.
I am interested in knowing the “footprint” for the Dillon XL650 as well. I have a single stage RCBS rock chucker I use for precision LR rifle loads (mostly 7mm Rem Mag). I am getting a Dillon XL650 for pistol reloading (9mm and 45 ACP) for IDPA shooting. Just built another bench for pistol station.
I have to say the most informative videos I have ever seen!!!..well done sir !!..I have been reloading for over 23 years now, pistol, than shotgun, now rifle all on a lee single stage and a lee pro 1000. And just recently a lee load all. 12 gauge. My pro 1000 was for my 45 acp but since sold my colt 1911 (big mistake!)..I have been looking for a new progressive press and with your help narrowed it to 2 choices, the diilon xl 650 or rcbs pro 2000 auto !!..I can not make up my mind!!! Dammit!!!!I would be loading for 6 different calibers…I love the priming of the rcbs, but I also like the accessories of the dillon!!anyway one of my big questions beside all this is the way you mounted the different presses on your videos some kind of custom made steel mount??? Your presses hardly moved during operation!!.. Do you have specs for them???
I’m looking to buy a used press possibly a dillon 650 do you have any leads to one?
Can the 650 load 40 cals?
Alex, yes. The Dillon progressive presses can load most any standard pistol as well as rifle caliber. If you have (standard size) dies for it (Lee, RCBS, Hornady, and my personal favoriates – Redding) they should work. I actually use mostly Redding Dies with Lees locking nuts.
Great video on the Dillon XL650. Just started browsing this site. Look forward to seeing more.
Have you ever used the Hornady Powder Measure on the Dillion XL 650?