Posts Tagged ‘Rifle Reloading’

How to weigh the costs and benefits of reloading your own ammunition

Wednesday, June 12th, 2013

We’ve all been there- walking past that neglected tool in the garage or exercise equipment in the den with accumulated dust so thick you could write your name in it. Then, you think back to the weeks that you agonized over which make/model to go with, and the rush of excitement when the delivery truck dropped off the equipment. Then, after using it once or twice, it sits neglected and collecting dust. Now, you’re deciding whether you want to order a bunch of reloading gear and get a home degree in ballistics so that you can join the ranks of ammunition reloaders. Thinking back to that dusty treadmill in your den, you may have second thoughts.

So let’s take a look at the reasons why you should or should not reload your own ammunition- then, you can move on to agonizing over which gear to go with.

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Reasons to reload

So why reload? There can be a lot of different reasons to reload, but here we’ll focus on four reasons to ponder.

Reason 1: Saving money and shooting more

The first reason we’ll discuss for reloading is the reason that got me thinking about reloading in the first place- saving money on ammunition and feeling good about shooting frequently. A good portion of the cost of ammunition is the brass casings that are used to hold all of the components together- so why throw it away? So how much money can you save by reloading? In some cases it depends on the caliber or ammunition spec you’re shooting, and in other cases it depends on the kind of deals you get on factory ammunition. Another factor that can change the savings associated with reloading are the costs associated with the components used to reload ammunition- primarily the primers, powder, and bullets used when reloading. My first press was purchased to reload 44 Magnum ammunition. This is a great caliber to reload, because 44 magnum ammunition is very expensive, and revolver brass is easy to collect- you just dump it out of the cylinder into a nice pile.

So let’s take a quick look at a “factory versus reloads” cost comparison for 44 Magnum based on reloading component street prices. First, consider a box of Magtech Sport Ammunition with 240 grain JSP bullets is running about ~$40 if you can find it in stock. Second let’s consider what it would cost if you were to reload equivalent ammunition with the following components:

Component Cost, reloading 44 Magnum

  • Brass $0.00 (re-use)
  • Primers (per 1000) $25.00
  • Powder (per pound) $20.00
  • Bullets (per 1000) $175.00

If we do a little math, and assume a powder charge of 20.0 grains (where one pound = 7000 grains), we arrive at a total of $12.86 per box of 50 for our own reloaded ammunition. Now, this analysis does not factor in the cost of your equipment, and other costs related to reloading (such as case cleaning media) but it does give you an idea of how much you can save by reloading your own ammunition.

Savings per box (44 magnum reloads) = $40.00 – $12.86 = $27.14

Reloaded 44 Magnum Ammunition - savings and satisfaction

Reloaded 44 Magnum Ammunition – savings and satisfaction

Here reloads cost only 32% of what factory ammunition would cost! In some cases it does not save you much money to reload ammunition. If you take the example of 9mm Luger ammunition, if you are comparing your own reloads to Winchester “White Box” factory ammunition, you may be closer to a wash on your costs if you are shooting plain FMJ (shortages and near-term price hikes aside). If you’re reloading JHP ammunition, the equation will look different, and you’d likely save money by reloading. There can be even more extreme cases of savings due to reloading, such as if you were to cast bullets (usually the most significant cost for reloading is bullets) and load your own 500 S&W magnum ammunition. In that case, you’d save even more compared to factory ammunition where a box of 50 could run $50.00 or more. That could transform your expensive bear repellant from a novelty into a frequent range companion- especially since you will be able to load cartridges to the power level that you can shoot comfortably.

Reason 2: Increasing accuracy and optimizing/customizing loads

There are two factors that are most instrumental in attaining accuracy when loading ammunition:

  1. Tailoring component selection and dimensions to the firearm
  2. Minimizing variation between cartridges

It’s hard to explain, but each firearm (each individual firearm, not just each make/model) tends to have an inherent preference for specific components. Bullets vary by profile, construction (jacketed versus hard-cast, etc) weight, and hardness to name a few. These factors can make a big difference for accuracy. Primers ignite in a particular way, some burning hotter, some burning cooler, some burning longer, some burning more quickly. Primers need to be matched to both the bullet and the powder being used. Even when matched to the components being used, firearms can show a preference for one brand/type of primer over another. Accuracy variation due to primer selection is more evident in rifles than in handguns, but it is a factor in both applications.

Various pistol bullet types that you can choose from when reloading

So why are we discussing all of these factors for accuracy here? It’s because reloading gives you the opportunity to select the components that work with your gun, and fine tune your loads for maximum accuracy. Once you’ve figured out what works for your gun and particular application, you need consistency from one cartridge to the next in order to maintain optimal accuracy. By paying careful attention to your reloading setup and using care when operating your equipment, you can attain better consistency than machinery used in factories to mass produce ammunition. By minimizing variations in bullet seating depth, charge weight, and other factors, you’ll experience less variation in point of impact which translates to better accuracy. This does assume that point of aim does not change from one shot to the next, so as the shooter, you have to do your part as well! By working up your own optimal load recipe and loading your ammunition with precision, you’ll naturally have more “pride of ownership” and satisfaction at the range when you seem improved and consistent groups.

Reason 3: For the fun of it

Is reloading fun? Well, that depends on your personality, how much time you have, how much space you have, and other factors as well. Reloading is about learning and improving. Reloading will challenge you to learn about how your firearm is put together, how it works, and what it needs in terms of ammunition. By studying your weapon and by experimenting, you’ll learn how to assemble optimized ammunition. While you can learn to reload ammunition in a short period of time, you can spend a lifetime learning about this craft continually learning new tricks, methods, and skills. If you are inspired by this quest for knowledge then you are likely to enjoy reloading. If you have a clean workspace and are willing to take your time, you will be much more likely to enjoy the process of reloading. Putting together ledger books and taking detailed notes will make your activities more fruitful over the years as you will have references to look back on and compare to. This information is invaluable not only for your own future reference, but also to share with others. This level of detail and discipline will make your reloading more of an experience of craftsmanship, and help to minimize frustration and dissatisfaction.

Keeping accurate records of your reloads is a part of the satisfaction of attention to detail

Keeping accurate records of your reloads is a part of the satisfaction of reloading

In order to convey what the reloading experience is about, I like to articulate what it was like to shoot my first box of reloaded 44 magnum ammunition. The first shot was a complete thrill! At first, you may not know what to expect, but as you drive home from the range after that first shooting session with your own ammunition, you’ll experience a unique satisfaction. This is true (to a lesser extent) each time you try out a new caliber, powder, bullet, or firearm you’ve loaded for. It is truly a lifetime journey.

Reason 4: So that you can shoot – period

We are all familiar with ammunition shortages and hoarding/price gouging that are a result of the current unstable political climate. If you are one of the fortunate individuals that stocked up on reloading supplies and gear before the “craziness”, then you now have the luxury of shooting when you want to and what you want to. Unfortunately, if you didn’t get stocked up prior to last fall/winter, you’ll have trouble finding reloading equipment and consumables. My only advice here is to get creative (friends, local shops, craigslist) and to be patient. It’s just a matter of time before presses, dies, powder, primers, and projectiles are more readily available again.

Deciding whether to take the plunge

We’ve covered a few (but not all) of the reasons to help you decide whether reloading is for you. Let’s summarize here by walking through some criteria to think about. Hopefully this will shed more light on whether or not you should “take the plunge”.

Mechanical aptitude
If you are the type that enjoys working on your own car, you’re likely to enjoy the process of reloading. In addition to just setting up and operating your reloading press, you will need to troubleshoot your equipment and repair it from time to time. If you have mechanical interest and ability, you’ll enjoy rising to the challenge.

Attention to detail
If you have a bit of OCD and like to organize your nuts and bolts, you’ll also enjoy picking up brass, labeling your ammo boxes, and getting your reloading bench setup. Since reloading can be dangerous (you are playing with explosives after all) this attention to detail is very important.

Patience
If you take up reloading as a hobby, there will be times that your patience will be put to the test. From time to time rounds won’t chamber, a rifle won’t group, and who knows what else. If you have enough patience, you will work through the issues. If you are not a patient person, you may end up with a reloading press in the trash can.

Time
Everything seems to require time, but there’s only so much to go around. We’ve all known someone without the time to use the toys they own, and if you don’t have time to shoot, you’ll need to ask yourself if you’ll have the time to reload as well. Reloading does take time, but like anything else, there’s always tomorrow.

Hopefully you now have a better idea about reloading as a hobby or necessity. Have thoughts to share? Please leave a comment!

Thanks,
Gavin

5 Tips for Reloading Accurate Rifle Ammunition

Friday, January 4th, 2013

There are many reasons to handload your own rifle ammunition. It’s fun, it’s economical, and you can attain maximum accuracy by carefully loading custom ammunition for your rifle. If you’re new to handloading rifle ammunition, here are some basic considerations for accuracy:

  1. Start with proven loads and load data
  2. Fire form your brass
  3. Optimize bullet seating depth
  4. Optimize bullet concentricity
  5. Experiment
A rifle like this Savage 116 is capable of fine accuracy - but only with the right ammunition - Image copyright 2012 NWGUN.com

A rifle like this Savage 116 is capable of fine accuracy – but only with the right ammunition – Image copyright 2012 NWGUN.com

Starting with proven loads

There’s a LOT of information out there for reloading almost any rifle cartridge. The first place to start when loading a new rifle cartridge is to read up on proven loads for the rifle you intend to load for. I typically read reloading manuals, powder manufacturer’s published load data, and also published load data from individuals online (such as the load data published on www.handloads.com - and I ALWAYS cross reference that data with published load data from the bullet or powder manufacturer). For example- if you are reloading .308 Winchester, you’ll find a lot of great loads featuring Varget powder and 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullets. That would be a good combination to start with for most rifles chambered in .308 Winchester.

Fire form your brass

It’s simple but true: your handloads will typically be more accurate with brass that’s been fired at least once in the exact rifle you intend to load for. This is because after firing, the brass is expanded to the exact contour of the chamber in your rifle. For bolt-action rifles, you can use a neck-only sizer die after fire forming your brass to retain most of the fire formed profile. You’ll find this combination of fire forming and neck-only sizing to be a great accuracy combination.

Optimize bullet seating depth

Perhaps the easiest and most productive step in handloading precision rifle ammunition is carefully measuring your rifle’s chamber/lead dimensions and then optimizing your bullet seating depth when seating bullets. Using special tools (bullet comparator, COL (Cartridge Overall Length) gage, etc) you can calculate a bullet seating depth that will minimize the distance the bullet travels forward before engaging the rifling in the barrel. At a high level, you’re ensuring that the bullet doesn’t “free float” too much in freebore before locking into the rifling. The net effect is a bullet that is more concentric with the barrel with less “wobble” along its axis while rotating. The traditional starting point for this distance of bullet travel is .020″ which is a part of the math when using special tools to measure and calculate bullet seating depth.

Here’s an article where you can learn more: AR-MPR: Phase II – Determining Max COL with OAL Gage

Optimize bullet concentricity

In order for your bullet to run true down the barrel, it has to start out concentric to the case neck it is pressed into. There’s a couple ways to do this. The first and easiest way is to use a bullet seating die with a free floating bullet seating plug. Hornady rifle dies and Redding competition seating dies both employ this mechanism. By aligning the bullet before seating begins, this type of seating die will ensure minimal bullet runout (maximum concentricity). The second way to ensure concentricity is to use a bullet concentricity gage which allows you to both measure concentricity and correct concentricity. An example of such a tool is the Hornady bullet concentricity tool that I’ve blogged about HERE.

The Redding competition seating die (middle) shown here is a great tool that can ensure minimal bullet runout and maximum concentricity – Image copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader

Experiment

While starting with others’ published loads is a great starting point, reloading accurate rifle ammunition always requires some experimentation. You can experiment by using different bullet weights, different bullet profiles, different powders, different powder charges, different primers, different sizing dies, and changing bullet seating depth to name a few things! A good way to do this is to start with what you think an optimal load will be, to pick one variable to change, and to then load batches of 5-10 cartridges with that one variable changed.

Example: Calculated optimal COL = X (.020″ off lands)

  • 5 cartridges, COL = X + .020″ (on lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X + .010″ (.010″ off lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X (.020″ off lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X – .010″ (.030″ off lands)

Following this loading session, take your rifle to the range, time your shots, take your time, and compare the accuracy of each group of 5 shots. This should steer you in the right direction. When you find the optimal seating depth for that bullet, you can then load some cartridges and use the powder charge as the variable to change. It may take a while, but by using this method, you will be able to create ammunition for your rifle that is likely to be *way* more accurate than any store bought ammunition.

First reloads for the Savage 116 resulted in group size reduction from ~1.25" to 0.560"

First reloads for the Savage 116 resulted in group size reduction from ~1.25″ to 0.560″ at 100 yards range

As you can see here, my first reloads for my Savage 116 30-06 rifle resulted in a drastic reduction in group size. On the next trip out (with fire formed brass) I saw a further reduction, down to 0.360″ for three shots at 100 yards, that was amazing!

While far from comprehensive, these 5 basic steps and considerations will get you started in the right direction for accurate loads at the  bench, or out in the field. Building accurate rifle ammunition is a fun journey, and it can be a lifetime one at that!

Do you have tips to share? Please leave a comment!

Thanks,
Gavin

 

Tips for Preventing Stuck Cases

Monday, December 24th, 2012

Excited to get started loading, I grabbed some .223 Remington brass that had been sitting for months since being sprayed down with lube. I prepared to validate my powder charge by running a single cartridge through the RCBS Pro 2000 progressive press. I pulled the lever to size the case, and *POP*, when trying to lower the ram I heard the awful sound of the case rim being torn from the case.

At that moment, I started humming the “Stuck Case Blues”.

Well, so much for my “quick loading session” I thought. I decided this was a good time to head over to the metal lathe for a “bulk stuck case removal session”. I had one RCBS X-die in .223 and one Hornady .223 full-length sizing die, both with .223 cases stuck in them. Time to do some maintenance!

223 stuck dies

.223 Remington dies with stuck cases – drilled out and ready for tapping – Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader

I performed the two case extractions, using the home-grown metal lathe method that I documented here, and then got ready for my reloading session. It’s a pain in the neck to have to deal with this kind of issue, but it also goes with the territory. Having said that, the best approach is to avoid stuck cases when possible. Here’s some tips that will help you do more loading and less extracting: (most important for full-length rifle sizing)

  1. Use a good rifle-duty case lube. On the spectrum of “light stray” to “heavy wax”, favor the heavier thicker liquids and pastes. Rifle case sizing is a demanding task, and you need a high-performance lubricant that is up to the task.
  2. Don’t force the press. This is always a good rule to follow, but when sizing rifle cases this is especially important. It takes a lot of force to size certain types of rifle cases (large, long, bottleneck cases particularly) but if you have to press “too hard” something is not right. Stop, inspect, and proceed with caution.
  3. Use generous/thick lube on the first case for your loading session. Your sizing die needs to be “primed” with lube for the first case sized. This priming process creates a film of lube on the inside of the die that is “maintained” by the lubed cases that are run through the press.
  4. Lube cases before loading. Don’t rely on case lube that was applied previously- it could be evaporated or solidified. Applying fresh lube will ensure that your cases are ready to go, and won’t stick.
  5. Lube generously, tumble off the lube. You need to be careful not to over-lube (you could dent shoulders), but you also need to ensure that cases are adequately lubed. You can feel the difference between an adequately lubed case and an under-lubed case. I use generous lube, and then tumble my completed cartridges in corncob media to remove the lube.
  6. Use smooth non-jerky motions when operating the press. If you avoid jerky movements, you’ll prevent spikes in force that could increase the likelihood of sticking a case.
  7. Use a high-quality sizing die or polish your sizer die. You can tell when inspecting sized cases that some reloading dies have a better internal finish than others. A better finish inside your sizing die translates to less friction, which translates to less force, which translates to less stuck cases and smoother sizing.

These are the basic guidelines that I observe (most of the time) to avoid stuck cases. When I don’t – I can expect a stuck case! Know of good stuck-case prevention tricks? Please share!

Thanks,
Gavin

2013 New Products from Hornady

Friday, November 16th, 2012

If you are a fan of Hornady products, you’ll want to check out the wave of new products that Hornady just announced this month…

There’s a lot of new ammunition and products in this release, and I thought I’d focus on the new reloading products that are a part of this announcement. Here’s a quick summary:

Lock-N-Load Light Strip

Do you some times feel “in the dark” when you’re trying to see the powder level in your cases while reloading? This light strip will help shed some light on the subject! This product actually works on most reloading presses, plugs into any 110V outlet, and is easy to install because of the adhesive backing.

Hornady Balance Beam Scale

If you prefer the old-school dead-reliable balance beam type of scale, Hornady now makes a product you’ll want to check out- the Hornady Balance Beam Scale. You don’t even need batteries to use this scale!

Hornady One-Shot Tumbling Media

Are you a fan of One-Shot products from Hornady? Well now you can use One-Shot to tumble clean cases! This tumbling media is corncob-based, and I find that this type of media is best for cleaning when you want a high luster, or to tumble off lube from cases that have just been sized. Available in a 76oz canister.

Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading – 9th Edition

It’s always best to use the latest data when you’re reloading. Hornady has just updated their reloading manual, and it’s got new data that is helpful for the die-hard reloader. Here’s some information from the product page on Hornady’s website:

Reloaders will find the 9th Edition Hornady® Handbook of Cartridge Reloading an invaluable resource for their bench. You’ll find over 900 pages representing data of all the newest Hornady® bullets like the NTX®, GMX® and FTX®, plus longtime favorites like the V-MAX™, SST®, InterBond®, InterLock®, A-MAX®, XTP® and more. Each cartridge features applicable Hornady® bullets along with velocity/powder charts for quick and easy reference.

Cartridge additions include the 17 Hornet, 327 Federal, 356 Winchester, 5.56 NATO, 416 Barrett and 505 Gibbs. There is also expanded data on over 20 favorites like the 223 Rem, 300 Whisper, 308 Win, 25-06 and many more. A variety of propellants such as Power Pro Varmint, AR-Comp, CFE-223, among others have been added to many popular cartridges.

Look for these products at your favorite retailer soon! Want to know more about any of these products? Want to share your experiences with these products? Please leave a comment!

Thanks,
Gavin

RCBS Lube Die- Lube While You Load

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2012

In my last post, I gave an overview of some of the case lube products that I’ve used personally. These are the spray-on and wipe-on products that a lot of reloaders use on a regular basis. But there’s one more product that I use that’s interesting for those that want to load bulk quantities of rifle ammunition on a progressive reloading press- it’s the RCBS Lube Die.

This die will decap and lube in one step. If you’re loading on a 5-station progressive press, you can throw in this die just ahead of your sizing die. You charge the die with the supplied case lube, and it gets applied automatically as a part of the reloading process. Very cool! One thing that you need to carefully control with this setup is the quantity of lube in the die. If you over-do it, you can end up with a mess. What you won’t have is the mess associated with lubricating rifle cases by hand- that can be one of the most time consuming and unpleasant parts of reloading rifle ammo!

Here’s an example 5-station reloading setup that you could employ with this die:

  1. RCBS lube die (lube, decap)
  2. Full-length sizing
  3. Powder charge
  4. Bullet seat
  5. Bullet crimp (optional)

So, if you are reloading a lot of rifle ammo, you may want to give this product a thought…

Thanks,
Gavin