One of the most important components when loading pistol ammunition is the dies that are used. Different die sets offer different features and finishes, so selecting the right dies can be a difficult purchasing decision for sure! So, please take a moment and let us all know what dies you prefer, and please leave a comment describing why!
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Hello all- I’m looking forward to bringing you all information about loading 40 S&W and 10mm Auto! We haven’t yet covered that here on http://ultimatereloader.com, and I know a lot of you are interested in this topic, so here goes!
Before I get started loading (as always), careful attention needs to be payed to several factors, including obtaining brass, and proper brass prep. One of the issues that reloaders need to pay attention to (especially with 40S&W) is bulged cases that have been fired in semi-auto pistols with “partial support” in the chamber. The most notable example of this kind of pistol is the Glock series of polymer pistols. Since these pistols have a partially supported chamber, and since 40 S&W is a high-pressure cartridge, 40 S&W range pick up brass is likely to contain bulged cases.
A bulged case that was fired in a Glock 40 S&W pistol - Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader
In fact, that’s exactly the type of brass that I’ll be using for this series – range pick-up brass that I purchased from one of the ranges that I’m a member at. Unfortunately, a typical sizing die will not completely remove this bulge (as the bulge is at the base of the cartridge). We need a special tool to remove this bulge in order to have reloaded ammunition that is both safe to fire, and reliable in operation.
One of the best tools for this job is the Redding GR-X die for 40 S&W / 10mm auto. This special die system pushes the entire length of the cartridge through a carbide sizing ring. In this way, the GR-X die ensures that we’ll have bulge free brass from case mouth to rim!
The Redding GR-X die system, bottle adapter, and bottle - Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader
Here’s the description from the product page on http://redding-reloading.com:
The new G-Rx Carbide push thru base sizing die is designed to restore fired cases from 40 S&W autoloading pistols that exhibit a bulge near the base without the need for case lube. By passing the case completely through the new G-Rx Carbide Die, the bulge is removed and the case may be returned to service.
I’m planning to run *all* of my range pick-up brass through this die before loading it. That way I’ll be sure that I don’t have any bulge issues. For 10mm auto, I’ll be using brand new Starline brass, so I won’t have to worry about bulges for the first pass at least.
I’m really looking forward to loading these cartridges! Do you guys have favorite loads for 40 S&W or 10mm or both that you want to share? I’d love to have some feedback on that…
Thanks,
Gavin
**Note: Any load data on http://ultimatereloader.com is “use at your own risk”. Always cross-reference any data used with manufacturer’s data.
We’ve all felt the delima. You’re standing in one of the isles at Harbor Freight tools (or substitute your own local low-cost import tool retailer) – and you are staring at a tool on the shelf. Should I buy this $19.99 digital caliper, or should I buy the Starrett one for $129.99? Hmmmm – how often will I really use this tool you ask yourself… Well, I won’t be using this digital caliper in extreme environments… so perhaps I’ll just get the cheap one here. Heck, I could buy six of these for the price of one premium digital caliper….
Have you experienced this kind of (sometimes painful) decision? If you are like me, you really have a weakness for quality. For me it goes a bit beyond that. I really like industrial grade tools and equipment. Quality industrial equipment is expensive, there’s just no way around it. If you don’t have the money to buy the right equipment the first time, will you have the money to replace the cheap junk that you thought would get you buy with the “real deal” later? These kinds of questions are good to ask yourself up front.
Quick Side Note:
I recently had two import knock-off camera flashes die on me (after about a year of light use). In frustration, I decided to fork down the money on “the real deal”. Where the knock-off flashes were $109. each, the Canon 580EX-II flash that I bought cost $425. – that’s a staggering price difference for two flashes that are “equivalent” on paper. What I discovered right off the bat is that these flashes were nowhere close in practical use. The import flashes had cheap mounts, noisy zoom motors, loud and slow recharging, inconsistent metering, and the list goes on. The Canon flash is sturdy, fast and silent when recharging, and extremely consistent. The Canon flash IS the real deal. In this case I should have started out with one “real” flash rather than two “knock-off” flashes. This isn’t the first time that I’ve learned that lesson the hard way!
So how does this relate to reloading equipment? Many first-time reloaders need to decide what “grade” of reloading gear to get started with. You can spend $129.99 up to $1700.00+ on a progressive reloading press- so how does the first time reloader (or experienced reloader) decide what to buy? At this point, most first-time reloaders are starting to count the cost. How long will it take for my reloading equipment to pay off? Will I really use this equipment? Those are the kinds of factors that we all face when we go to make these kinds of major purchases. I could go on and on here, but I won’t. 
Let’s focus on some factors and truths that will help shed light on what grade of quality is right for a given application:
I hope this discussion is helpful. Don’t over-think things, but do think about what you buy.
Do you have thoughts about quality? Please leave a comment!
-Gavin
For Phase II of the AR-MPR we will be focused on precision handloading techniques and load development. For this phase of the project, I decided to showcase some of the popular Redding Reloading products that have an outstanding quality reputation. Here, we’ll talk briefly about each of these products.
At the heart of the loading process is the reloading press. The Redding Big Boss II is a solid precision American-made product that is ideally suited for this project. It is constructed of cast iron (base), and steel (ram, linkage, lever arm, etc). It also features a “thru-the-ram” spent primer collection system which utilizes a tube to either collect the spent primers, or directs them into a trash can or other container.
The Redding Big Boss II single stage reloading press - Image Copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader
For this project, we’re going to leverage two important add-ons: the first is the Redding Slide-Bar priming system. I’ve used the slide-bar system on the Redding T-7 turret press, and really like the way it works. The second add-on we’re going to use is the Hornady Lock-N-Load bushing conversion kit. This will allow us to quickly swap out dies, and also enables some “free-float” action for the die, which can help with alignment for seating and sizing.
If precision is important, consistent bullet seating depth and bullet runout are critical. One way to help with consistency of seating depth and concentricity is to use a bullet seating die that employs a sliding collar which keeps the case and bullet in perfect alignment while the ram is raised to its topmost position. The Redding Competition Seating Die is a device that employs this type of mechanical action. Furthermore, it also provides a micrometer for seating depth adjustment. This die is machined to tight tolerances and has a very high quality look and feel (white lettering is perfect, black bluing has good finish).
The Redding Competition Seater Die - Image Copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader
When you examine the components that make up this die assembly, you can easily see how it works:
The Redding Competition Seating Die Assembly - Image Copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader
At top here, we have the lock ring and die body. At bottom, we have (from left to right) the sliding internal body, the seating plug, the compression spring, and the micrometer adjustment screw.
As the ram of the press is raised, the case comes into contact with the inner body. The bullet contacts the seating plug, and the entire assembly moves upwards- compressing the spring. Near the top of the stroke, the seating plug bottoms out against the micrometer adjustment screw, and for the remaining upward motion the bullet is seated. At the top of the stroke, the ram stops, and the bullet seating is finished. With its sliding collar, this die works well even on progressive presses where the shell plate rotates (bullet is pre-aligned as the bullet and case enters the bullet seating die).
Since we’ll be loading single-stage-style in Phase II, we’re going to need a high-quality off-press bench mounted powder measure. The Redding 3-BR is an extremely high quality unit that has all of the features that we’ll need to throw consistent charges for the .223 Remington ammunition that we’ll be loading.
The Redding 3-BR Benchrest powder measure - Image Copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader
Here’s a few things that are notable about this powder measure:
For some of the test loads that I’ve put together, I’ve noted that powder drops (with Varget) vary by +/- about .1 grain! That’s outstanding metering consistency! That doesn’t always happen with every powder (especially large stick powders) – but in this case, that will make life easier.
With Redding equipment you know you’re getting top-quality competition proven gear that’s made from USA steel in the USA. Not everyone can say that!
Coming up, we’ll be seeing how this equipment is used in detail, so stay tuned!
Thanks,
Gavin
Now that we’ve build and function checked the AR-MPR rifle (See Brownells Videos for Complete Details), it’s time to move from Phase I (Build) to Phase II – Precision Loading and Rifle Accurizing/Tuning. This rifle has already proven that it’s capable of meeting the original accuracy goal of .5 – .75 MOA (See Range Report #1 Post), so let’s see just how good we can get this rifle to shoot!
The Redding Big Boss II Single-Stage Reloading Press with Slide Bar Priming System - Image Copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader
As a starting point, I wanted to give an overview of some of the loading procedures and equipment that I plan to show/use during this phase of the AR-MPR project. This phase will involve practices and techniques that will demonstrate how precision loading and shooting and lead to smaller group sizes. We’ll discover how various factors and components can affect accuracy so that we know what we can an can’t get away with when we move on to phase III (ammo mass production).
Here are some of the reloading procedures we’ll cover:
And here are some of the tools that we’ll use:
I’ve really been looking forward to this phase of the project because I am passionate about precision, quality, and generally enjoy “dialing things in”. I’ve also been looking forward to trying out new equipment, and sharing my experiences with you all. If you are needing precision out of your AR-15, I think you’ll find this phase to be both interesting and informative. If you’re a shooting or handloading expert (or have experiences in these topics) I’d love to hear from you and benefit from your knowledge!
Please do let me know if there’s anything I’m missing here that you would like to see, or questions that you have. As always, feel free to leave comments.
Thanks,
Gavin
