Posts Tagged ‘.223 Remington’

5 Tips for Reloading Accurate Rifle Ammunition

Friday, January 4th, 2013

There are many reasons to handload your own rifle ammunition. It’s fun, it’s economical, and you can attain maximum accuracy by carefully loading custom ammunition for your rifle. If you’re new to handloading rifle ammunition, here are some basic considerations for accuracy:

  1. Start with proven loads and load data
  2. Fire form your brass
  3. Optimize bullet seating depth
  4. Optimize bullet concentricity
  5. Experiment
A rifle like this Savage 116 is capable of fine accuracy - but only with the right ammunition - Image copyright 2012 NWGUN.com

A rifle like this Savage 116 is capable of fine accuracy – but only with the right ammunition – Image copyright 2012 NWGUN.com

Starting with proven loads

There’s a LOT of information out there for reloading almost any rifle cartridge. The first place to start when loading a new rifle cartridge is to read up on proven loads for the rifle you intend to load for. I typically read reloading manuals, powder manufacturer’s published load data, and also published load data from individuals online (such as the load data published on www.handloads.com - and I ALWAYS cross reference that data with published load data from the bullet or powder manufacturer). For example- if you are reloading .308 Winchester, you’ll find a lot of great loads featuring Varget powder and 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullets. That would be a good combination to start with for most rifles chambered in .308 Winchester.

Fire form your brass

It’s simple but true: your handloads will typically be more accurate with brass that’s been fired at least once in the exact rifle you intend to load for. This is because after firing, the brass is expanded to the exact contour of the chamber in your rifle. For bolt-action rifles, you can use a neck-only sizer die after fire forming your brass to retain most of the fire formed profile. You’ll find this combination of fire forming and neck-only sizing to be a great accuracy combination.

Optimize bullet seating depth

Perhaps the easiest and most productive step in handloading precision rifle ammunition is carefully measuring your rifle’s chamber/lead dimensions and then optimizing your bullet seating depth when seating bullets. Using special tools (bullet comparator, COL (Cartridge Overall Length) gage, etc) you can calculate a bullet seating depth that will minimize the distance the bullet travels forward before engaging the rifling in the barrel. At a high level, you’re ensuring that the bullet doesn’t “free float” too much in freebore before locking into the rifling. The net effect is a bullet that is more concentric with the barrel with less “wobble” along its axis while rotating. The traditional starting point for this distance of bullet travel is .020″ which is a part of the math when using special tools to measure and calculate bullet seating depth.

Here’s an article where you can learn more: AR-MPR: Phase II – Determining Max COL with OAL Gage

Optimize bullet concentricity

In order for your bullet to run true down the barrel, it has to start out concentric to the case neck it is pressed into. There’s a couple ways to do this. The first and easiest way is to use a bullet seating die with a free floating bullet seating plug. Hornady rifle dies and Redding competition seating dies both employ this mechanism. By aligning the bullet before seating begins, this type of seating die will ensure minimal bullet runout (maximum concentricity). The second way to ensure concentricity is to use a bullet concentricity gage which allows you to both measure concentricity and correct concentricity. An example of such a tool is the Hornady bullet concentricity tool that I’ve blogged about HERE.

The Redding competition seating die (middle) shown here is a great tool that can ensure minimal bullet runout and maximum concentricity – Image copyright 2011 Ultimate Reloader

Experiment

While starting with others’ published loads is a great starting point, reloading accurate rifle ammunition always requires some experimentation. You can experiment by using different bullet weights, different bullet profiles, different powders, different powder charges, different primers, different sizing dies, and changing bullet seating depth to name a few things! A good way to do this is to start with what you think an optimal load will be, to pick one variable to change, and to then load batches of 5-10 cartridges with that one variable changed.

Example: Calculated optimal COL = X (.020″ off lands)

  • 5 cartridges, COL = X + .020″ (on lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X + .010″ (.010″ off lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X (.020″ off lands)
  • 5 cartridges, COL = X – .010″ (.030″ off lands)

Following this loading session, take your rifle to the range, time your shots, take your time, and compare the accuracy of each group of 5 shots. This should steer you in the right direction. When you find the optimal seating depth for that bullet, you can then load some cartridges and use the powder charge as the variable to change. It may take a while, but by using this method, you will be able to create ammunition for your rifle that is likely to be *way* more accurate than any store bought ammunition.

First reloads for the Savage 116 resulted in group size reduction from ~1.25" to 0.560"

First reloads for the Savage 116 resulted in group size reduction from ~1.25″ to 0.560″ at 100 yards range

As you can see here, my first reloads for my Savage 116 30-06 rifle resulted in a drastic reduction in group size. On the next trip out (with fire formed brass) I saw a further reduction, down to 0.360″ for three shots at 100 yards, that was amazing!

While far from comprehensive, these 5 basic steps and considerations will get you started in the right direction for accurate loads at the  bench, or out in the field. Building accurate rifle ammunition is a fun journey, and it can be a lifetime one at that!

Do you have tips to share? Please leave a comment!

Thanks,
Gavin

 

Tips for Preventing Stuck Cases

Monday, December 24th, 2012

Excited to get started loading, I grabbed some .223 Remington brass that had been sitting for months since being sprayed down with lube. I prepared to validate my powder charge by running a single cartridge through the RCBS Pro 2000 progressive press. I pulled the lever to size the case, and *POP*, when trying to lower the ram I heard the awful sound of the case rim being torn from the case.

At that moment, I started humming the “Stuck Case Blues”.

Well, so much for my “quick loading session” I thought. I decided this was a good time to head over to the metal lathe for a “bulk stuck case removal session”. I had one RCBS X-die in .223 and one Hornady .223 full-length sizing die, both with .223 cases stuck in them. Time to do some maintenance!

223 stuck dies

.223 Remington dies with stuck cases – drilled out and ready for tapping – Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader

I performed the two case extractions, using the home-grown metal lathe method that I documented here, and then got ready for my reloading session. It’s a pain in the neck to have to deal with this kind of issue, but it also goes with the territory. Having said that, the best approach is to avoid stuck cases when possible. Here’s some tips that will help you do more loading and less extracting: (most important for full-length rifle sizing)

  1. Use a good rifle-duty case lube. On the spectrum of “light stray” to “heavy wax”, favor the heavier thicker liquids and pastes. Rifle case sizing is a demanding task, and you need a high-performance lubricant that is up to the task.
  2. Don’t force the press. This is always a good rule to follow, but when sizing rifle cases this is especially important. It takes a lot of force to size certain types of rifle cases (large, long, bottleneck cases particularly) but if you have to press “too hard” something is not right. Stop, inspect, and proceed with caution.
  3. Use generous/thick lube on the first case for your loading session. Your sizing die needs to be “primed” with lube for the first case sized. This priming process creates a film of lube on the inside of the die that is “maintained” by the lubed cases that are run through the press.
  4. Lube cases before loading. Don’t rely on case lube that was applied previously- it could be evaporated or solidified. Applying fresh lube will ensure that your cases are ready to go, and won’t stick.
  5. Lube generously, tumble off the lube. You need to be careful not to over-lube (you could dent shoulders), but you also need to ensure that cases are adequately lubed. You can feel the difference between an adequately lubed case and an under-lubed case. I use generous lube, and then tumble my completed cartridges in corncob media to remove the lube.
  6. Use smooth non-jerky motions when operating the press. If you avoid jerky movements, you’ll prevent spikes in force that could increase the likelihood of sticking a case.
  7. Use a high-quality sizing die or polish your sizer die. You can tell when inspecting sized cases that some reloading dies have a better internal finish than others. A better finish inside your sizing die translates to less friction, which translates to less force, which translates to less stuck cases and smoother sizing.

These are the basic guidelines that I observe (most of the time) to avoid stuck cases. When I don’t – I can expect a stuck case! Know of good stuck-case prevention tricks? Please share!

Thanks,
Gavin

RCBS Lube Die- Lube While You Load

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2012

In my last post, I gave an overview of some of the case lube products that I’ve used personally. These are the spray-on and wipe-on products that a lot of reloaders use on a regular basis. But there’s one more product that I use that’s interesting for those that want to load bulk quantities of rifle ammunition on a progressive reloading press- it’s the RCBS Lube Die.

This die will decap and lube in one step. If you’re loading on a 5-station progressive press, you can throw in this die just ahead of your sizing die. You charge the die with the supplied case lube, and it gets applied automatically as a part of the reloading process. Very cool! One thing that you need to carefully control with this setup is the quantity of lube in the die. If you over-do it, you can end up with a mess. What you won’t have is the mess associated with lubricating rifle cases by hand- that can be one of the most time consuming and unpleasant parts of reloading rifle ammo!

Here’s an example 5-station reloading setup that you could employ with this die:

  1. RCBS lube die (lube, decap)
  2. Full-length sizing
  3. Powder charge
  4. Bullet seat
  5. Bullet crimp (optional)

So, if you are reloading a lot of rifle ammo, you may want to give this product a thought…

Thanks,
Gavin

Quick Tip: Indexing Your Dies

Wednesday, June 6th, 2012

If you are reloading rifle ammunition on a progressive reloading press, you just may be one of those “attention to detail” kind of guys. Rifle reloaders tend to be a bit obsessive about their reloading supplies, equipment, and processes. But some times we overlook the simple details that can make a difference.

If you’re loading rifle ammunition on the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP 5-station reloading press, you probably appreciate the Lock-N-Load bushing system. It’s quick, easy to use, and provides a bit of “float” which mimics other benchrest style reloading equipment in order to enhance alignment of case and die.

Here’s a quick tip from friend Bruce Gary: to optimize repeatability for things like bullet seating depth, make some marks on the Lock-N-Load bushing and press so that the die indexes in the same splines each time you install it on the press.

Simple die indexing on the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP - Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader

While this won’t be a “game changer” for your loading, it’s an easy thing to do that will help maximize consistency. Isn’t that what accurate reloading and rifle shooting is all about: consistency? :)

Got other quick tips that you’d like to share? Please drop a comment!

Thanks,
Gavin

Dreams of loading the big 50

Wednesday, April 25th, 2012

Everyday shooting is fun, but some times I just want to experience something extreme- something that few people experience. When it comes to rifle shooting, the big 50 BMG definately falls into this category. What’s so exciting about the 50 BMG? (Doesn’t take much imagination, but I’ll elaborate none the less :) ). The 50 BMG is powerful. If you’re used to loading .223 Remington, you’re used to powder charge weights in the 25.0 grain range. With 50 BMG, you’re looking at charge weights in the 250.0 grain range- yes: 10x the powder as compared to .223 Remington! That sounds like a lot of fun. Then there’s the “reach” of the 50 BMG rifle. Want to shoot out to a mile (1760 yards)? -  the 50 BMG has you covered!

50 BMG dies -vs- .223 Remington dies - Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader

Let’s take a quick look at the dies required for loading 50 BMG. Here we see the basic rifle die sets from Lee Precision for .223 and 50 BMG next to each other. From left to right: .223 Remington sizing/depriming die, 50 BMG sizing/depriming die, 50 BMG seating die, .223 Remington seating die.

The 50 BMG dies are so big, they have larger threads (1 1/4″ x 12 TPI as opposed to the standard 7/8″ x 14 TPI). Some reloading presses have a removable bushing (such as the Lee Classic Cast 50 BMG Single Stage Press Kit) so that you can use either size of dies. Everything related to the 50 BMG is just plain massive!

Let’s look at the 50 BMG cartridge to see just how powerful this class of rifle is.

.223 Remington cartridge (left) and 50 BMG cartridge (right) - Image copyright 2012 Ultimate Reloader

Wow! I haven’t yet had the opportunity to actually shoot a 50 BMG rifle, but I’m sure looking forward to it. Hard to imagine pushing a 700 grain projectile 3000 fps, but that’s just what the 50 BMG can do. There are just a couple of challenges that I need to overcome before I can “get into” 50 BMG. First, I need to find a rifle, and second I need to find a place to shoot the rifle. I’m sure I’ll get that chance, but for now it’s just a dream really. I have a complete 50 BMG reloading kit, and some military ammo, and some ideas. :)

I suppose this dream is like a lot of the projects and aspirations that we all contemplate- it takes some patience and time for things to line up, and some times it’s just fun to ponder grandiose ideas and to wait for the right time.

Anyone out there shooting and reloading 50 BMG? What kind of groups are you getting at 1000 yards, and how do your reloads compare to factory ammunition? One day we can compare notes.

Thanks,
Gavin