I have had my LNL for about 6 months now and love it. However, in the beginning there was quite a learning curve for me as I hadn’t reloaded in quite some time. First problem I experienced was the dies would work loose, especially the powder drop. I called Hornady and they sent me thin rings to install on the dies. Something like a lock ring. Problem settled. The next problem I experienced was the PTX. Just couldn’t get it to work quite right no matter how much I adjusted it. Finally purchased a Powder Funnel from powderfunnels.com for $25 and it works slick as anything. I reload 45 caliber 200 grain SWC form Laser Cast (Oregon Trail). The powder funnel tapers the casing to whatever size you want so any lead or wax deposit left on the casing is totally eliminated. Now, to your question: in the instructions for the New Dimension dies, page 4, it tells you how to seat the bullet “without” a crimp. Once the bullet is seated, you use a separate taper crimp die. You won’t run out of die space. First is sizing/decap die, next is the powder drop with the powder funnel (or Hornady PTX) next is the powder cop, next is seating die and then crimping die. You use all 5 stations. Works great. Just use some patience setting everything up. I reload for quality not quantity but can reload 300 bullets in about two and a half hours. (I’m probably slower than most) Also, use the little angled piece with holes that goes into the powder tube. I also spray some case lube on a cloth and roll my casings(50 at a time) around on the cloth. This helps with the sizing die. Not required but I find it helps.

Hope this helps……Dave

I have a question related to the Hornady 3 die set for pistols. I’ve read on your site and several others that the prefered crimp for auto pistol ammo is taper. However, as you show on your review of the Hornady new dimension dies the set comes with a combination seating and roll crimp die. Several persons have recommended using a separate taper crimp die but what happens with the seating/roll crimp die ? Can it be adjusted to disable the roll crimp ? Some have inferred that it can be adjusted to make a taper crimp instead. Not sure how much faith to put into this. Also, if I intended to have a separate taper crimp die and powder cop I believe I would run out of station space. Would the solution be to eliminate the expander die and use a powder tjrough expander ? Thanks for any input.

My next thing to sort through is the last primer in the tube not feeding out nicely. This is all a learning thing, but can get frustrating at times when you just want to make ammo and not futz around.

When you weigh the charges, how much variation are you seeing?

Gavin,

I now want all of my loads to come out exact on the powder. I am using the micrometer adjuster on the pistol rotor for my .45 ACP loads. I am using BP-38 at 6.0 grains. The powder drops vary from time to time on the powder cop die. I check the die and it seems to sometimes stick and sometimes it tells the truth. How can I ensure that my powder is dropping consistently all of the time? Is there a better powder measure out there etc?

Excellent site with great quality video. Sharing of your knowledge is deeply appreciated.

Let the manufacturers know that you are selling their product for them by drawing new people to the reloading hobby.

Kindest regards,
Joe

http://reloaders.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2

Have you seen any products like P/Ws “Auto Drive” for the LNL AP? Right now, there is nothing as far as I can tell. Hmmm, maybe someone with a shop and real skills could modify the linkage for the autodrive to work on a LNL AP… Just saying.

BTW – Got my new crank arm that you designed. Awesome craftsmanship. The handle works phenomenal.

Yours,

Rich

Thanks

Thanks for your thoughts on the roller handle, I’ll order one. Were you experiencing trouble with having to exert a lot of pressure to remove the case off the PTX?

I was watching your video on the using the case feeder on the L-N-L with the RCBS bullet feeder it looks like the through put is increased greatly. I would like to buy the RCBS bullet feeder but the only down side to them is that to reload pistol and 223 rem. I would have to buy to bullet feeders. MY question is would the Mr. Bullet Feeder work on the Hornady L-N-L AP. This Bullet Feeder would be better for me because all I would have to buy is the caliber conversion kits to change calibers, were as with the Rcbs bullet Feeder I would have to change the whole unit. Don’t get me wrong the Rcbs feeder is a nice piece but I think they could have made conversion kits to change from one caliber to another. If you can give me any insite on this I would be greatful, because I sent a message to the company who makes the Mr. Bullet Feeder a week ago with the same question and still no answer.

On another note I was wondering if you could give me some ideas on how to speed up my prep time on my 223 rem. Here are the up grades I have ordered, a Rcbs decap and lube die, a case Feeder for my L-N-L AP, and a Dillion presion case trimmer w/ size/trim die. I’m tring to design a set up were I can debur and champr the brass in the press I’ve figured out most of it except the part of how to keep the brass from spining. At curent time it takes me about 60 minutes to prep 100 pcs. of brass to load. I’m hopeing to cut that by 70-80%. If you have any Ideas i’m open for sugestions. I will update when I get everything in and get it up and running.

Thanks

Kirk

don’t even use your LNL AP without the roller handle. I just got mine and it is very nice. The little bit of extra length makes all of the difference. I could not make it for what Gavin is selling them for without buying my own mill.

Nice job Gavin.

Have my LNL all set up and have been reloading 45 ACP. Having a terrible time with the PTX expander sticking or clinging to the case. Have to use extreme pressure on the arm to force the casing off the PTX. Have tried lubricating the outside of the PTX, adjusting it so it barely bells the case and nothing seems to work. Am I supposed to have the pistol powder sleeve and the PTX installed in the drop tube? From all the videos the machine is supposed to work very smoothly.

Thanks for your help. Your videos made the buying decision much more informed and set up understandable.

Thanks,

Dave

Your videos are phenomenal. Hats off to you for the effort. I literally had your video on the RCBS bullet feeder playing as I set mine up last night. Thanks for the help. Two quick questions:

The caddies on your bench – did you happen to post the plans (or are you selling them )?

The mounting post plans – any plans to actually sell the mounting post?

You have a nice little business going there! I will be placing an order for the roller handle soon.

Yours,

Rich

I do have a question for Gavin on priming. Sometimes with .45 range brass it is difficult to seat primers. How hard can you lean on a primer without risking detonation? Do you prep the primer pocket to avoid irregularities? Thanks again for the great site.

Hope you’re liking your new press!

100 percent American made, by Americans for Americas. We do NOT outsource any operations to China

Fully adjustable for amount of flare

Replaces a set of five or more caliber specific PTXs

Flares all calibers from 30 to 50

Does not work the brass as with conventional designs since our unique geometry does not require the use of a lead before flaring

Works with cast and swaged lead bullets, jacketed and solid, no more shaving lead or crushed cases as with the original PTXs from Hornady®.

Thanks again.

Those are all manufacturer #’s.

Hope this helps,
Gavin

Station 1…..sizing and depriming……mfg model number

Station 2…..Hornady powder measure ad PTX expander for 451/452 diameter Model number

Station 3…..Hornady Powder Cop die is self explanatory.

Station 4….Bullet seating die for seat only…mfg model number I am going to be loading 200 grain lead wadcutters for bullseye shooting. I have read that the Dillon seating die is very good for lead wadcutters. Can you add a micrometer seating stem to this die to get a really good setting?

Station 5…..45 Caliber taper crimp die. Again I am assuming you are using Hornady

Does The Ultimate Reloader sell anything? Especially the new roller arm.

Thanks so much for your help. It sure helps this old guy get through the confusion.

Dave J

The above generated 1700 free bullets for me….which helped decide on press.

The feed back I got was since I probably will only load so many rifle loads, say 50+ or so per batch and certainly will reap the benefits of the AP by loading far more .45 ACP, then use the progressive AP loader for pistol and buy a Hornady Classic single stage for rifle.

Not a bad suggestion as I would get another 500 free bullets for the kit, which includes the Hornady 350 scale and some other items. I already have the book, and I’m not counting the cost of the powder scale since I have one on the AP…..so when all is said and done the kit at say $349 doesn’t look bad when levied against buying a scale and 500 bullets (which I would get). That would be about $200-$220 worth of merchandise, which leaves $129-$149 out of pocket my cost for the Classic kit. Couple that savings with Cabelas come on promotions and I can probably reduce that another $50-$75.

Probably would be the best , most efficient and safest way to go? Watching the videos this looks like a fun way to spend some time, although I can already see I need some other items….auto brass feed, prep center…on and on…lol. Thanks again.

The powder validation die is called the “Hornady Powder Cop” die. It does not come with the press. Most online retailers that sell Hornady equipment (MidwayUSA, etc) will have this item for sale.

Good luck!

I am interested in more advice when prepping used brass for loading. Total newbie with a ton of questions about loading with a single stage press. Any video’s or website would be greatly appreciated?

Thanks again
Brian

To start loading 45 ACP, you’ll need a set of dies, and a #45 shellplate. I would reccomend that you get the Hornady die set, and think about getting an extra crimp die (Hornady taper crimp die for 45ACP works quite well).

For each additional caliber, you’ll need dies, bushings (LNL bushings), and a shellplate, unless the caliber uses the same shellplate.

In general, please take a look at the following article to see “what else” you’ll need:
http://ultimatereloader.com/?page_id=332

Thank you
Brian

Hope that helps!

I have cleaned/degreased and lubed cases/die (as of today, cleaned and degreased multipel times) and only get stuck / wrecked shells.

am I setting the sizing die wrong? In long rifle adjustments on the die, the base of the die should tocuh the shell plate- I have checked, re-checked, adjusted and after ten or so stuck shells am asking for help.

r/
Scott

Yes, single stage pistol loading is possible, but it’s slow

Do you have the whole kit? (hand priming tool, powder measure, etc)

Thanks,
Gavin

I haven’t tried other Lee seater dies on the Lock-N-Load, but I’ve heard of others having good luck with them on the Lock-N-Load.

Hope that helps.

Thanks.

Both Hornady and Dillon have excellent customer service, so I don’t think you’ll have a problem either way, but Dillon is a bit more bold with their “No BS Warranty” as far as I can tell.

Both presses are great pieces of equipment, and I think which one is right for you depends on what your needs and budget are.

If you’re loading 1000’s of rounds at a time, the XL-650 may be better for you (fully constrained brass feed, etc). If you’re doing frequent caliber changes, working up loads, etc – the Hornady may be better for your needs. The Dillon is more expensive (and has the edge on fit/finish) and the Hornady has features the Dillon does not (LNL bushings, LNL Powder measure metering inserts, etc)

I’m planning to do more extensive comparisons and articles here on http://www.ultimatereloader.com, so stay tuned!