Dillon is known for their comprehensive accessories for the reloading presses they manufacture. The components and parts are really designed as a proper “system”. They’ve also made sure that all aspects of operating a clean, tidy, efficient, and safe reloading room are covered by their product offerings. One such product is the Dillon Powder Check System (Dillon Part #21044). This system is designed specifically for the Dillon XL-650 (5 station) and Dillon Super 1050 (7 station) progressive reloading presses.

Before we deep-dive on specifics, let’s take and overview look at the various components of this powder check system.

**Note that this article is specific to the XL-650, and some of the descriptions do not apply to the Dillon Super 1050 press which operates in a different manner. This powder check system operates in a consistent way on both presses but some operational details differ.

The complete assembly:

The Dillon Powder Check System - Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

You can see that this is a massive unit!

Here are the individual components that make up the assembly:

Components of the Dillon Powder Check System - Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

Now that you have “seen” the powder check assembly, let’s cover the purpose of each component:

Die Body

The die body is the same unit that is used with the powder measure. It screws into the press toolhead and allows the powder check assembly to be swapped from one toolhead easily.

Upper Assembly

The upper assembly is the main portion of the powder check system. This is the component that essentially holds everything together.

Clamp

The clamp is the same type as used on the powder measure system. You back out an allen screw, and that allows the upper assembly to be removed from the die body.

Powder Rod

The powder rod has a brass tip on it that actually contacts the powder to raise and lower the rod to the proper position.

Buzzer Actuator

The buzzer actuator will cause the buzzer to sound if the ram is at the top of the stroke and the powder level is not correct. When the powder level is correct, the groove in the buzzer actuator prevents the brass pin from depressing, therefore preventing the buzzer from sounding.

Buzzer Housing

The buzzer housing pivots every time the ram reaches the top of its stroke. This housing contains the buzzer, a AAA battery, and the switch/contact which interfaces with the buzzer actuator.

Inside the buzzer housing - Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

Actuation Rod and Adjustment Screw

The actuation rod is what contacts the ram (the shellplate carrier) each time the ram reaches the top of its stroke. The actuation rod is adjustable so that the proper contact clearances are attained between the buzzer switch contact (brass point) on the buzzer housing and the buzzer actuator on the powder rod.

I think it’s really easiest to explain how this powder check system works by watching a video!

Here’s the powder check system in action on the Dillon XL-650 (older video):

I think that pretty much covers the basics of the Dillon Powder Check System. One of the things I like about this system is the fact that you can always “hear” what’s going on, but this system does not lock up the press when you have slight variations in powder level. Overall, it’s a great system. It’s too bad you can’t use it on other presses (unless you modify the press). Guess what? Batteries (one at least…) *are* included with this product!

Stay tuned for more powder check system posts…

Thanks,
Gavin

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So next, I thought it would be a good idea to look at some of the popular powder check systems available today so that you can understand the features implemented by each “system”.

From left: Dillon XL-650/1050 Powder Check System, RCBS Powder Checker Die, RCBS Lock-Out Die, Hornady Powder Cop Die - Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

So let’s perform a quick overview of each of these systems. I’ll talk about these systems in more detail in subsequent posts.

Dillon XL-650 Powder Check System

This system is perhaps the most complicated system from a construction stand-point, and can only be used with the Dillon XL-650 and Super 1050 reloading presses. This powder system will sound an audible alarm if there is an undercharge or overcharge. The upper unit is “quick release” and utilizes the same lower die as the powder measure. You can setup the powder check on multiple toolheads.

RCBS Powder Checker Die

This die utilizes a center rod actuated by the powder in the case, and a separate rod off to the side which holds a white rubber O-Ring at a user adjustable height so that the level can be compared at the top of the ram stroke when reloading. This die is simple to setup and use, but requires the user to visually inspect the level for each round loaded.

RCBS Lock-Out Die

The Lock-Out die by RCBS is a unique contraption that intrigues the imagination. It is case activated, and will literally lock up the reloading press if there is an undercharge or overcharge. This means it’s perhaps the safest of any of the systems. On some presses, it does require the die to be removed if there is a variation in powder level in order to resume loading.

Hornady Powder Cop Die

The Hornady Powder cop die is very similar to the RCBS Powder Checker die system. The main difference is the fact that the RCBS system uses two rods, where the Hornady powder cop die uses only one, and the reference O-Ring is adjusted on the single rod. It essentially shares the same advantages and disadvantages as the RCBS Powder Checker die system.

All of these systems work, but some work better for certain applications than others. I’ll post some additional information about these systems so that you can better understand how they work and which system is better for you.

Did I miss anything here? Do you use a powder checking system I didn’t cover?

Thanks,
Gavin

While reloading can be dangerous, it doesn’t have to be. If you observe some basic rules of safety the chances of a reloading room or shooting range mishap are greatly diminished. So let’s take a look at some basic methods for avoiding safety issues.

The RCBS Lock-Out Die - cheap insurance! - Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

Rule #1: Be sure of your reloading data, work up loads

It is very important to be absolutely sure of the load data you are using. If the wrong components or measures/quantities are used, the results can be catastrophic! If for instance you used load data for one powder (say, H-110 for pistol) with the wrong powder (say W-231) you could blow up your gun, and your face. With careful load selection based on the capabilities of your gun and cross-referencing, you can avoid these dangers. If you are loading for a Smith and Wesson 38 special revolver from the early 1900’s, you may want to stick with lighter bullets and softer loads. If you have a Ruger Super Redhawk .44 magnum, you don’t have to worry about any “factory listed” loads since this gun is “overbuilt”.

Here’s what I do:

1. Select the components you want to use and the intended use for the load
2. Start with online load data from the manufacturer or load data from a reloading manual
3. Check online data submitted by users (as a cross-reference) – sometimes you can get some great accuracy tips this way
4. Double check your loading manual or online manufacturer’s data (feel free to triple or quadruple check, you can’t be too careful!)
5. Keep careful and detailed records of load data

Rule #2: Wear eye protection while loading

A simple rule to follow is to always use eye protection while loading in case you have a primer explosion. I personally use prescription wrap-around safety glasses as they are not much different than wearing my “normal” glasses.

Rule #3: Keep a clean bench

When I load, I typically clean the bench before-hand. I also am sure to keep only one canister of powder on the bench, and type of primers on the bench as well. I also have labeled “remnant” containers for extra primers (old plastic bullet boxes work well). This precaution will ensure that you don’t mix components accidentally.

Rule #4: Don’t be in a hurry

Just like when you’re backing a trailer, if you are patient and take your time, you can help to avoid disaster. Taking your time applies to planning, setup, each stroke of the press, labeling your ammo, and cleanup. It’s not worth it to be in a hurry! I also find that I enjoy myself much more in the reloading room when I’m not in a hurry.

Rule #5: Use a powder check system

There are really two types of powder check systems- mechanical, and visual. Mechanical powder check systems come in the various forms of powder check die systems (I’ll cover each in detail in subsequent blog posts). The visual powder check system is only reliable if you use a powder that fills the case more than half way, which will result in an overflow if there is a double charge. Note that the visual system will not prevent squib loads (no powder) if you happen to forget to look in a case when the powder system is not working or empty. Personally, I advocate powder check systems for all reloading when practical, especially on progressive reloading presses. It’s the best money you’ll spend on your reloading gear! In addition to using a powder check system, read the instructions for your reloading gear and be careful to observe the proper operating procedures.

There we go- five rules to keep your guns, body, and house safe. These rules are really just a starting point to ensure safe reloading. Do you have other important safety tips? Please share.

Thanks!
Gavin

A couple of years ago, I designed and fabricated an IWB (Inside the Waist Band) holster for this weapon, and I wanted to share my impressions of this holster, and experiences with carrying this pistol.

First, some pictures!

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

This is my primary carry weapon. I figure that 9mm is a good happy balance between stopping power, weapon size, and recoil. Shown are some 9mm reloads with 124 grain Hornady XTP bullets that shoot quite well out of this pistol.

To start, I carried this pistol with the optional belt clip. That made for some real compact carry, but over time I decided that I wanted a more secure and safe carry configuration, so that lead to the design and fabrication of this holster. Leather is great because it is hard-wearing, comfortable, and it breathes! It also protects the weapon.

So far I wouldn’t change much regarding the design. The ergonomics are good, and there’s even a flap that covers the back corner of the slide (no poking you in the side!). This pistol is a pleasure to carry, and I don’t have many complaints.

Over time, I’m sure we’ll discuss loading for concealed carry and personal defense/practice/training. Lots to talk about here! Stay tuned.

Thanks,
Gavin

Stay tuned! We’re going to be covering more Lee Loadmaster reloading here on Ultimate Reloader!

The tiny labels that come with jacketed bullets (in the box of bullets) are OK if you can write in 4 point sized letters, but for the rest of us, more space is needed. I decided to create labels on my PC using Avery 2″ x 4″ sticky back labels (I have some Avery 8163 labels, many more options in this size are available).

After a few variants, I have settled on the following format:

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

So far, these are working well for me. If you want to print your own, I’ve included a ZIP file attachment with PDF files for the following:

1. Generic (caliber not on label)
2. 38 Special
3. 357 Magnum
4. 44 Magnum
5. 9mm Luger
6. 45 ACP
7. 40 S&W
8. .226 / 5.56
9. 308 Winchester
10. 30-06
11. 22-250

Have fun! Have suggestions for changes? Please comment on this post!

Here’s the updated download with .223/5.56 and 38 Super:

Ammo_Box_Labels_2

For a while, I’ve been wondering about Fiocchi primers, so I thought I would give them a try, starting with small pistol (those have been hard for me to find in particular). I just got a shipment  of 1500 of these primers (10 packs of 150) from Lucky Gunner (click here for product link) so that I could try these out.

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

The first test was to load up some 9mm ammo on the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP. The primers loaded without issue- and I was using mixed headstamp brass (sometimes a grab bag for primer seating consistency).

Next, I measured these primers in comparison with Winchester Small Pistol (WSP), and here’s what I found:

Diameter: 0.175″ (Winchester), 0.175″ (Fiocchi)

Height: 0.119″ (Winchester), 0.120″ (Fiocchi)

So dimensionally, they seem pretty equivalent. Next, I’ll take these to the range and shoot a bunch of 9mm reloads with my Glock 17 to test out ignition performance. Following that, I think I’ll try some Fiocchi Large Pistol Primers!

I’ll let you all know how it goes. Anyone want to share their experiences with these primers?

Thanks,
Gavin

Well now you can order additional bullet feed dies from RCBS. They do not yet show up on retailer’s sites yet, but if you call up RCBS and ask for part # 82351, you can order this die for a suggested retail of $31.00, and eventually a street price of about $25.00.

What exactly do you get with this kit?

Included:

1. Bullet feed die body with lockring
2. 4 nylon collets (one for each supported caliber, 9mm, 38/357, .40 S&W, 45ACP)

Here’s a picture of what’s included:

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

Wondering why your favorite retailer doesn’t have these available yet? Ask them- if you express interest, they’ll likely start to stock these dies.

Thanks,
Gavin

For a long time, I’ve had my eye on the Redding Competition series bullet seating dies. Perhaps like me, you’ve spent a while dialing in your COL when loading rifle, and you’ve thought to yourself “wouldn’t it be nice if I could just dial the die up/down by .005 and not have to try a few times to hit my length”. Well, with micrometer type bullet seating dies you can do just that.

I’m looking forward to using these dies to evaluate press performance. I have one for 30-06, and one for 22-250- so these dies should come in real handy when working up loads and loading benchrest ammo.

Image Copyright 2010 Ultimate Reloader

From all of the great feedback I’ve read I’m expecting to be pleased with the performance of these dies. I’ll let you all know how it goes. Expect to see these dies show up in tests, blog posts, and videos here shortly!

Till next time,
Gavin

http://grantcunningham.com/blog.html

I’ve been reading his blog for years, and have also consulted him on revolver purchases (he’s a big revolver advocate) as well as gunsmithing options and procedures. Grant is a great guy, and runs a great gunsmithing business as well.

Here are some of his blog entries by category:

Reloading

Gunsmithing

Self Defense

Check it out!

Not all types are in stock for each brand, but they have all types in stock if you don’t have to have a particular.

Specifically, they have the following in stock:

1. Wolf Small Pistol Primers
2. Wolf Large Pistol Primers
3. Wolf Large Pistol Magnum Primers
4. Wolf Large Rifle Primers
5. Wolf Large Pistol Magnum Primers
6. Wolf Small Rifle Pistol Primers
7. Wolf Small Rifle Magnum Primers
8. Winchester Large Pistol Primers
9. Winchester Large Pistol Magnum Primers
10. Winchester Large Rifle Primers
11. Winchester Large Pistol Magnum Primers
12. Winchester Small Rifle Pistol Primers
13. Winchester Small Rifle Magnum Primers

They also sell CCI, PMC and Remington primers! My last order from them shipped quickly, and arrived as expected.

Thinks are looking better!

Happy loading,
Gavin

Primers, one of the vital ingredients for reloading

Pictured above:

• Foreground: Winchester Larege Pistol Primers (WLP) a great dual-purpose primer (for magnum and non-magnum loads)
• Right: Wolf Large Pistol Primers – a good general non-magnum large pistol primer
• Back Right: CCI BR2 Benchrest Large Rifle Primers
• Back Middle: Wolf Small Pistol Primers
• Left Foreground: Federal #100 Small Pistol Primers and Federal #200 Small Pistol Magnum primers

I’ve had good luck with feeding and reliability with all of these primers. Some firearms require special considerations and attention when selecting a primer- such as my Ruger gp100 357 Magnum revolver. It has lightened springs and requires a primer with a soft cup (such as the Winchester WSP Small Pistol Primer – it does not have any plating and has soft brass construction).

So how and where can you get ahold of primers? This can be a difficult problem, but you have basically two options:

Option 1: Buy Local

It’s always nice if you can buy primers locally. The price may be higher, but you won’t need to pay shipping or hasmat (Hazardous Materials) fees to get them to your door. The problem is- it’s difficult to find gun shops or shooting ranges that sell reloading supplies, and if they do, the chance they have primers in stock (the ones that you need) is low. But it doesn’t hurt to get on the phone and see what you can find.

Option 2: Buy Online

If you can’t find what you need locally, you’ll need to buy online, or from a mail-order supplier. In this case, you *may* have more luck finding the exact primers that you need. If you purchase online, you’ll probably pay something like $15-25. for shipping, and you can add a $25. hasmat fee on top of that. Because of this overhead, you will want to try and find a supplier online that has the primers (and powder) that you need in stock, and in sufficient quantities to allow you to “stock up”. If you order in larger quantities (including a group buy with friends) the shipping and hasmat fees become more tolerable.

So, having said all that, where to buy primers online? Here are some options:

1. MidwayUSA – (www.midwayusa.com) – Midway usually has good prices, has accurate inventory, and you can even sign up for product arrival notifications
2. Cabelas – (www.cabelas.com) – Cabelas has a decent selection of primers and powder, and you can even find these supplies at your local Cabelas retail store if they have them in stock (assuming you live within driving distance of a store)
3. Grafs and Sons – (www.grafs.com) – these guys have a good site, and give good inventory details
4. Widener’s - (http://www.wideners.com/) – Good prices and good selection
5. Midsouth shooter’s supply – (http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/) – An online retailer with a great reputation
6. Powder Valley (http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/) – The website is a bit old-school, but they have really good prices and selection

There you have it- some of the popular places to buy reloading primers online. I hope you find this list useful.

I know we are all hoping that the reloading component (and general ammunition) shortage subsides, that would make our hobby much more affordable for sure. In the mean time, keep an eye on the various retailer’s inventories, and be considerate to your fellow reloaders buy not price gouging if you sell primers to someone, and order only what you’ll need in the foreseeable future.

Happy loading and shooting!

I thought I would take the opportunity to take a casual shot of the Hornady Lock-n-Load AP, the Dillon XL-650, the Lee Loadmaster, and the RCBS Pro 2000 all lined up so that you can see what they look like next to eachother. This gives you an idea of the relative size of these presses, and also gives you a quick visual inventory of the features on these presses.

From left, Dillon XL-650, Lee Loadmaster, Hornady Lock-N-Load AP, and RCBS Pro 2000

I hope this lineup is helpful- and I’m excited to bring you more comparisons, videos, and in-depth articles so that you can get to know the capabilities of each of these reloading presses. Want to know something specific? Let me know!

Thanks!

Interested in the Lee Classic Turret Ergonomic Roller Handle? This product is currently under consideration, please send mail using the form below if you are interested in this product! Thanks.

To express interest in this product, please submit using the following form:

Screenshot from rifle case prep video

Well, I’ve had the opportunity now to spend some time using the Hornady Lock-N-Load Case Prep Center, and I’ll have to say, I really like this machine!

Here are some links to the videos that are here on www.ultimatereloader.com :

Hornady Case Prep Center Overview
Hornady Case Prep Center – Rifle – Part I
Hornady Case Prep Center – Rifle – Part II
Hornady Case Prep Center Trimming Pistol (44 Magnum) (HD)

This machine is very well built, and has quite a few great engineering features including the solid cast aluminum construction, substantial and cool looking knobs and controls, and great ergonomics and workflow. Check out the videos and see for yourself!

Reloading for your weapon affords you more complete control over your shooting experiences. If you want the most accurate load, you can dial that load in for your weapon. If you want a custom hunting load, you can dial that in for your weapon. If you want to shoot 44 special loads in your 44 magnum without the “crud ring” buildup in the chamber throats you can do that.

The point is- when you have a great shooting session and you’ve accomplished your goals in part because of your reloading process – there’s quite a bit of satisfaction in that!

Here’s a shot from an up-coming video showing my S&W Model 629. I love loading for this gun- and shooting it.

Why does this matter for the reloader? With shellplates costing upwards of $30 each, it’s nice to get some mileage out of them. In addition, you’re using a common primer size for the cartridges talked about here (large), and that means if you’re changing between these calibers you can leave the shellplate and priming system alone. All you really have to do is potentially change parts on your case feeder (if you use one), change out the dies, and adjust your powder measure for the load you’re working on.

Hornady #1 Shellplate with back: 22-250, .308, 30-06, front: 45 ACP

If you’re a real hard core reloader, you can tailor your firearm selection around common reloading equipment and components. Somewhow I doubt very many shooters would actually do this, but hey- why not consider how you’ll be reloading when you purchase firearms?

**Note that for the Hornady shellplate #1 45 ACP will fit slightly loose. If you load a lot of 45ACP, try the #45 shellplate.

The most common rifle cartridges I load for right now are 22-250, and 30-06. It’s really nice to have efficient workflow when loading progressively. If I’m going to switch to 45ACP, it’s again very easy to perform the switchover. If you have multiple progressive presses, you can still benefit from this type of enhanced workflow- and that’s one thing I really like: “smooth workflow”.

One of the limitations of this product is the fact that it does not work with cast lead bullets. The reason is pretty straightforward- the lube on the bullets pretty much gums things up. That makes sense. RCBS states that this attachment works with jacketed and FMJ bullets. But what about the less expensive alternative: plated bullets?

I spoke with ATK product line manager Kent Sakamoto about this, and he said the machine will work with plated bullets. So, I thought I would try it out!

In the following video:
RCBS Bullet feeder on Lee Loadmaster for 45 ACP (HD)

I show the RCBS pistol bullet feeder working with the Lee Loadmaster reloading press. In this video I used Rainier Ballistics 200 grain flat-point plated bullets, and they fed perfectly! So this is good news for those of you that want to use the RCBS pistol bullet feeder and want more options for bullets.

Screenshot:

I’ll have to say, so far I’m really liking this piece of equipment. When you first pull down the main lever, you’ll be surprised at how smooth the stroke is, and how positive the stop is. It feels heavy and substantial.

I’m in the process of trimming and prepping all of my 44 magnum brass (old, used and abused) so getting this machine recently felt like “good timing”.

Here’s a shot I took of my case prep center in the studio:

Stay tuned for more details, videos, tips/tricks, etc. I’ll be showing rifle and pistol brass prep. Should be fun!

But what about rifle bullets? (I get that question a lot- can I use this for .223?) Well, in 2010, RCBS will be making a rifle bullet feeder kit available for both .223 and 30 caliber rifle bullets! The feed die is different in this case, and the system is different than the pistol setup, but retains much of the same basic components.

From Kent Sakamoto, RCBS product line manager:

Bullet Feeder—Rifle (Progressive Press)

Based on the popularity of the Pistol Bullet Feeder Kit, RCBS® introduces two rifle versions— one for .22 caliber and one for .30 caliber. This new Rifle Bullet Feeder is designed to fit on most 7/8″-14 threaded progressive presses. It features a four country universal 110-240 power supply operated collator unit that orients the bullets to drop into the feed mechanism. The hopper holds approximately 250 (55-gr) .22 cal bullets and 100-125 (180-gr) .30 cal bullets. Each kit increases load rates by least 50%.

*NOTE: Not for use with lead bullets. Use jacketed or FMJ bullets only.

Features & Benefits

•  Available for either .22 or .30 caliber
•  Increases load rate by 50%
•  Large hopper for non-stop reloading and max output/efficiency
•  Bullets are oriented to drop directly into feed mechanism/seat die
•  Adjustable collator height
• RCBS® two-year warranty

Picture:

I’ll let you all know when I know more about when this product will be available, cost, etc.

Would you all like to see videos of this when it’s available? (I can’t wait to try it myself…)

Over the last couple of years, I’ve had quite a few requests for dimensions and plans for the steel pedestal/stand that I constructed for my Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive reloading press (now the stand I use for all progressives via custom adapter plates…).

Well, due to the generosity of one of my readers (Jon Kelly) who took the time to make up plans for this stand- you can now download these plans- just click on the image below!

The revolver pictured below makes me think I’m a detective from 1932. There’s something about holding it that makes me want to put on a double breasted suit and hat. Kind of fun to take it out shooting, and be taken back “to another time” for a moment. It’s also got a great trigger, and shoots at point of aim. Not bad for a revolver that’s about 80 or more years old!

S&W Model 1905 38 Special

Anyone else have a weakness for blued revolvers? I can tell you, when I see a mirror-polished blued Colt python, it activates my senses. Same is true of a nice S&W model 29.

When you’re selecting a pistol powder, here are a few things to consider:

1. Caliber, barrel length, power level, bullet weight
2. Metering capabilities
3. Load data
4. Safety and case capacity
5. Availability
6. Cost

I know this is not an exhaustive list, but it’s enough to get you started – so let’s take a look at each of these considerations…

Before you get started, you may want to read the following article on smokeless gunpowders from the “Reloading 101″ section on this site:
Gunpowder Basics

Now that you have the basics down, let’s talk about the criteria from our list:

Caliber, barrel length, power level, bullet weight

Any time you go to figure something out, you have to start somewhere, and with powder selection, the caliber you’re going to load for is the place to start. Some calibers perform better with faster powders (such as 9mm) where other calibers will favor slower powders (such as 44 Magnum). If you look at online sources of load data, or in your reloading manual, you can pick the caliber you’re loading for, and see what powders are listed. If you have a short barreled gun (snub nose revolver or short barreled automatic) then you should look for faster powders. If you have a long barrel handgun (like a 6″ revolver) you can use slower powders. You also need to decide how powerful your loads will be. If you’re loading 44 Magnum, and want to reduce your load, you have to be careful not to use powders that are intended for heavy loads such as Hodgdon H-110/Winchester 296 (same powder). Those powders require 90%+ load level to burn properly and can be dangerous if down-loaded. Bullet weight will also make a difference on what powder you use. Generally, lighter bullets can handle faster powders, and heavier bullets will favor slower powders. Consult your load data to determine which powder is right for your bullet weight.

Metering Capabilities

If you’re loading for pistol, you’re likely using a progressive reloading press. Each press has it’s own powder measure design, and each has types of powder that it will meter better, and types of powder that meter less reliably. In general, flake powders (such as Alliant Unique) are not as consistent as ball powders or flattened ball powders (such as Winchester 213/Hodgdon HP-38 – the same powder).

Load Data

I’ve already mentioned that consulting load data is a good way to pick a powder. If you have abundant load data (start with manufacturer data, then look at user-supplied data on websites) then you may have more “tried and true” options for your loads. If you don’t see load data posted, don’t assume you can’t use that powder, but be prepared to do some foot work to find out what the correct load should be. Load data from trusted sources (forum participants you trust, friends, etc) can be a good way to go.

Safety and Case Capacity

Some loads do not fill the case very much in terms of air to powder ratio. If you add a tall slender case to the equation (think 38 special) then you will have a tough time visually inspecting the powder level while you load. It would be very easy to double-charge if you had an equipment malfunction or other stoppage of your workflow. There are two options here to make sure you are safe: first would be to use a powder that will “overflow” upon a double chare, the second is to use a powder check system. Dillon, Hornady, and RCBS offer great powder checking solutions – better safe than sorry!

Availability

Let’s face it- in this political climate some times you have to be creative with what you can find due to the shortage of reloading components we are currently suffering through. You may have to start with what powders are available, and select primers, bullets, and load data from that standpoint. What’s important is to always use reliable load data, and don’t experiment with potentially dangerous unknown loads. Always check your load data from two sources if possible, and ALWAYS double check your load data before starting your loading process! Keeping good records is a great idea as well.

Cost

I think it’s important to consider the cost of powder, but it’s the last thing to consider in my opinion. The proper application for your intended uses and the safety factor are more important. Some powders are more expensive than others, and some loads are more expensive than others. Usually the cost of bullets is much more than the cost of primers or powder (unless you cast your own bullets). If you want to calculate the cost of powder for your loads, just remember that 1 pound = 7000 grains. It’s easy enought to calculate once you know that.

There you have it. Some thoughts to keep in mind when you go to pick a powder. If you’re going to order a 5lb cannister of powder, you better be sure of what you’re getting

Did I miss anything here? Feel free to comment with your thoughts.

Thanks!

Hi! This is killing me I swear!! No matter what I do I can’t reload 45 auto that fits into my XD45. It doesn’t look like new ammo and it always seems to bend the case wall. I don’t know what else I can do. I’ve tried reading the manual. Can you please make a video on setting the dies? I got the deprimer down good but the other two are driving me crazy. If I could just see someone else do it that would be great. And I’m watching your video on 45 auto reloading and your instruction is awesome. So can you help me PLEASE!!???

I think everyone who has reloaded pistol ammo has run into this problem (crushed cases). It can be quite madening!

I’d bet you are over-crimping. Here’s how I setup a seat/crimp die for automatics:

1. Install seat/crimp die in LNL bushing, snap into place
2. Back the seating plug mostly out
3. Raise the die in the bushing fairly high 
4. Take a loaded round that is properly sized (factory ammo would be good option) and put it in the shellplate before the seat/crimp station
5. Raise the ram, keep the ram at the top of its stroke
6. Turn the die down until you feel it contact the case (make sure seating plug is not touching bullet
   Tighten slightly (slightly!!!)
7. Turn down the seating plug (make sure you’re using the right profile, flat point versus round nose) until it contacts the bullet.

That should be enough to dial you in. Run a test round through, check your cartridge overall length with calipers and dial in.

Usually the equation goes something like this:

Equipment Cost = ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) * X

Solving for X:
X = (Equipment Cost ) / ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) 

Where X is the number of boxes of ammo that need to be loaded in order to “break even”.

Example:
Equipment Cost = $1000, Factory box ammo cost = $20, Reloaded box ammo cost = $9

This yields:
X = (1000) / (20 – 9) = 90.91 Boxes of ammo = ~ 4550 rounds.

This is where a lot of people may stop, scratch their head, and say “perhaps I’ll just shoot less, and use factory ammo”.

But, this is not the “true equation”. What people are forgetting about here is the value of their used equipment, which is actually about 60-75% of what they paid for the equipment new in some cases (especially in this economy).

So, the new equation becomes:

(Equipment Cost – Used Equipment Value) = ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost)) * X

In terms of X:
X = (Equipment Cost – Used Equipment Value ) / ((factory box ammo cost) – (reloaded box ammo cost))

Re-calculating our example: (assuming 65% relsale value)
X = (1000 – 650) / (20 – 9) = 31.81 Boxes of ammo = ~ 1590 rounds.

Of coarse there are a LOT of variables here, bullet selection (lead -vs- jacketed), actual equipment cost, and so on and so forth. The point is, factor in your used equipment value, and the outcome is drastically different. I experienced this when upgrading from my first progressive to my second progressive (sold the 1st on ebay for about 75% of purchase price).

Hope this helps!
-Gavin

It all started with the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive, I then added the Dillon XL-650, then the Lee Loadmaster, and finally the RCBS Pro 2000.

So what have I learned so far? Well, each press has a purpose, and each press also has strengths and weaknesses. Not surprising given the fact that no one company can patent every good idea.

Here’s some video screenshots from videos I posted in 2009: (OK, for those of you paying attention, the RCBS Pro 2000 video is from 2010 )

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP:

Dillon XL-650:

Lee Loadmaster:

RCBS Pro 2000:

It’s been very interesting to learn about how each of these presses work, and what’s involved to load pistol, load rifle, and change between calibers. I’ve even posted videos showing the RCBS bullet feeder in action with some of these presses (more of those videos to come).

I’ve also posted videos for other products such as digital scales, single stage presses, turret presses, and more.

So what are my goals for 2010? There are a few things I’d like to accomplish. One of my primary goals however is to finish extensive articles, videos, reviews, and comparisons for the 5 station progressive reloading presses. I’m also planning to cover other presses and products (The Hornady Case Prep Center for instance).

Stay tuned here on www.ultimatereloader.com , because in 2010, we’re going to have a lot of fun, and learn a lot about reloading products!

Did I miss anything? Anything specific you want to see? Please add a comment to this post!

Thanks,
Gavin

Sample screenshot:

If you want to go straight to the reloading section, follow this link: http://www.hornady.com/reloading

Thanks-
Gavin

I’ve decided to start a running blogroll where you can stay up to date with all of the latest reloading news, humor, and other information that I decide to throw up here on www.ultimatereloader.com.

I hope that you will find these blog posts both entertaining, and informative!

If you would like to stay informed via RSS, please click the following link:
http://ultimatereloader.com/?feed=rss2

Thanks,
Gavin

**Note: Update: 08/20/2010 Sold out again- projected availability should be known my 09/01/2010.

Price: $45.00 + $12.00 fixed shipping to US, insured

Proudly made entirely in the USA

Included in this kit:

- Heavy duty welded steel bracket

- Mounting screws (2)

- One Akro Bin bullet tray (same style that comes with Lock-N-Load AP Progressive press)

Bullet tray system as installed:

This ergonomic lever and roller handle allows you to load more comfortably and efficiently on your Hornady Lock-N-Load progressive reloading press. This lever and handle are a handsome upgrade for your Hornady progressive press! The roller handle is more comfortable on the hands when loading a lot of ammunition, and the unique bent lever shaft provides a more natural loading position. The bend in the lever shaft makes it possible to lower the lever to the bottom of the stroke (ram all the way up) without the need to lean forward or to the side. In the down position, the roller handle is approximately 7” higher than the ball would be on the factory lever.

Cost: $46.00 + $12.00 Shipping to US only

**Note that handles will ship within 5 business days

Trouble ordering? Please use form at the bottom of this page to send mail. Thanks.

This custom lever and roller handle installs in minutes, and does not require modification of the reloading press in any way. The chrome plated handle revolves while you load, so there’s no movement or rubbing between your hand and the handle.

This lever and revolving handle kit comes with the following:

1. Ergonomic bent lever arm

2. Chrome plated revolving handle

3. Split washer

4. Instructions

**Note that the above list of items is all that is included in this listing. The press pedestal, press and other accessories are not included

You use the nut that came with your press to complete the installation.

Side view:

Comparison, with ergonomic bend, without ergonomic bend:

Using the ergonomic roller handle (bottom of stroke):

What’s included with this kit:

Inquiries regarding handles:

In this review, we’ll take a look at Winchester’s small pistol primers (WSP). These primers are intendid for use with non-magnum loads only. I have personally loaded many boxes of 38 special and 9mm rounds with these primers.  These primers have always worked really well for me with zero malfunctions, even with a lightened action, more on that later. I’ve also reviewed Winchester’s large pistol primers (WLP) so you may want to read that review.

Summary:
Overall Score: 4.5/5

Hits:

• - Priced reasonably
• - Readily available at most stores that sell reloading components
• - Compact trays that allow primer pickup tubes to be used directly
• - Very reliable ignition even with lightened actions

Misses:

• - Brass primers are not as pretty as nickel plated (but are easier to ignite without plating…)

Complete Review:

Winchester makes great reloading components, and their primers are no exception. Winchester primers are packaged in packs of 100, or bricks of 1000 (a box of 10 packs of 100).

Winchester WSP Primers, Tray (foreground), Box (back left), and Brick (back right)

WSP primers, loose, completed rounds

These primers have worked well for me, and I switched to them after reading about their good performance even for guns with ligtened springs/actions. I’ve now shot thousands of rounds with WSP primers in my 6″ stainless Ruger gp-100 that I installed Wolff reduced power springs in.

Ruger GP-100 with Wolff reduced power springs for lighter trigger pull

Note that the rounds loaded for this gun with WSP primers are 38 special loadings in 357 magnum brass (to minimize crud rings that form when shooting 38 special brass in a 357 magnum). When I load magnum loads for this revolver, I always use magnum primers because WSP primers are not rated for magnum loads. I guess Winchester was not able to get a consistent and reliable formulation that worked both for non-magnum and magnum loads (WLP works for both magnum and non-magnum loads for large pistol applications).

Packaging:

Same as with the WLP, these boxes are not filled with a lot of empty space, so they don’t eat up valuable shelf space. The plastic trays are substantial, and they allow the use of primer pickup tubes (such as the style used with Hornady and Dillon systems). I tend to use an old Lee primer tray, and flip the primers onto a flat surface instead of using the pickup tubes directly on the trays, just my preference.

 The nice plastic trays and compact packaging gets a score of 4.5/5.0.

Performance:

As I’ve mentioned previously in this article, I’ve loaded thousands of rounds in 38 special, 38 special in 357 magnum brass, and 9mm. I have not had a single problem, even with my revolver with reduced power springs (did have light strikes with some factory 357 magnum ammo). That gives these primers a solid 5.0/5.0 for performance.

Value for the money:

With a street price of $25-30/1000, these primers are priced at or below the average price for primers at the time of this writing. That makes these primers a solid 4.0/5.0 on the value scale.

Summing it all up:

Winchester WSP primers are a great value, are readily available, and work well in a variety of applications. I tend to like the look of nickel plated primers better (contrasts with brass case), but I’ll take the more reliable ignition from bare brass primers instead. The fact that these primers are easy to ignite makes them a great choice for guns with lightened actions.

For more details see www.winchester.com.

In this review, we’ll take a look at Winchester’s dual purpose large pistol primers (WLP). These primers are a bit more powerful than typical large pistol primers, but not as powerful as standard magnum primers. None the less, Winchester categorizes these primers as “for standard or magnum loads”. I have personally loaded thousands of 45 acp, 44 special, and 44 magnum loads with these primers. I’ve used both the old style (nickel plated) and the new style (bare brass). These primers have always worked really well for me with zero malfunctions.

Summary:
Overall Score: 4.5/5

Hits:

• - Priced reasonably
• - Dual purpose primer, no need to empty priming system between magnum/standard load changes within the same primer size
• - Compact trays that allow primer pickup tubes to be used directly

Misses:

• - No dedicated large pistol magnum primer from Winchester

Complete Review:

Winchester makes great reloading components, and primers are no exception. Winchester primers are packaged in packs of 100, or bricks of 1000 (a box of 10 packs of 100).

Winchester WLP Primers, Tray, Box (100), and Brick (1000)

Completed rounds (45acp on left, 44 magnum on right), loose primers, packaging (old on left, new on right)

Old-style WLP primers (nickel plated)

Note that Winchester has changed the style of these primers. They used to be nickel plated (for corrosion resistance). Winchester switched to bare brass to minimize the required impact force from the hammer or firing pin for reliable ignition. This can be helpful if you have a lightened action and need primers that don’t require much force to light off. These primers are readily aviailable, and have worked really well for me.

Packaging:

These boxes are not filled with a lot of empty space, so they don’t eat up valuable shelf space. The plastic trays are substantial, and they allow the use of primer pickup tubes (such as the style used with Hornady and Dillon systems). I tend to use an old Lee primer tray, and flip the primers onto a flat surface instead of using the pickup tubes directly on the trays, just my preference.

 The nice plastic trays and compact packaging gets a score of 4.5/5.0.

Performance:

I have shot thousands of both standard loads and magnum loads with WLP primers (both the old style and the new style). These primers have been flawless in terms of ignition, and even with full house 44 magnum loads with bulky powder (Hodgdon H-110) the granules are completely burnt. I have not had any issues with these primers feeding or seating properly. I give these primers a 5.0/5.0 for well rounded performance.

Value for the money:

With a street price of $25-30/1000, these primers are priced at or below the average price for primers at the time of this writing. That makes these primers a solid 4.0/5.0 on the value scale.

Summing it all up:

Winchester WLP primers are a good product that can streamline your reloading process by working both with regular loads (such as 45acp) and magnum loads (such as 44 magnum). These primers come in nice packaging, and work well with factory pistols, as well as pistols with actions that have been worked over (within reason).

For more details see www.winchester.com.

In this review, we’ll take a look Hornady’s “Custom Grade New Dimension” pistol dies. In particular, I’ll use a set of revolver dies (44 special/magnum) for this review.

Summary:
Overall Score: 4.5/5

Hits:

• - A very complete set, with accessories and replacement parts, allen wrench
• - Great features, Excellent quality
• - Comes in a nice stackable cases

Misses:

• - Rubber washer on seating die deforms (too squishy)
• - No 4 die set available (for automatics, separate taper crimp die)

Complete Review:

 There’s no question: Hornady makes a great set of pistol dies. Each set comes in a rugged plastic box that is stackable. The boxes are nice, but the dies sometimes sit a bit wonky in the holders (a nit pick…).

Here’s what you get with each set:

• - Sizing/Decapping die
• - Expander die
• - Seating/Crimping die
• - Plastic storage box
• - Extra seating plug (come with flat point and round nose style plugs)
• - Extra “C” snap ring (retains sliding bullet guide and seating plug)
• - Allen wrench
• - Instructions

Each die comes with a nice locking ring so that you can retain your height setting when removing from a press or lock-n-load bushing.

What you get with each pistol die set (Lock-N-Load bushings shown not included):

So let’s take a look at the individual dies included in this set.

Sizing/Decapping die:

Sizing die, view 1

Sizing die view 2

The sizing die features a titanium nitride coated sizing ring. This prevents the die from wearing out even when you’re not using lubrication, and helps to prevent cases from sticking. (I use lube most of the time anyways as it makes the press run smoother) These dies also feature the “Zip Spindle” system for adjusting and retaining your decapping pin height setting. This system works really well compared to some of the other systems I’ve used. The sizing ring does a great job of sizing the cases. Where some brands of sizing die have not sized down enough in my experience, the Hornady sizing dies always size to a proper diameter.

Overall score for sizing/decapping die, 5/5

Expander Die

The Hornady expander die is simple and straightforward, and has worked well for me. It has the same standard features as the rest of the dies (corrosion resistant coating, lock ring).

Expander die

Overall score for this expander die, 5/5

Bullet Seating / Crimp Die

The bullet seating and crimp die has some unique features. One of these features is a sliding guide for the bullet. This guide contacts the bullet before seating begins. This helps to align the bullet, and helps to prevent the bullet from tipping. You can also change the seating plug (comes with both a flat point and round nose style seating plugs) in just a few seconds! One complaint I do have is the rubber washer between the lock ring for the seater and the die body. It’s much too squishy, so you are left with a mushy feel when you compress it, and it deforms easily. Perhaps I’ll experiment on my metal lathe with some delrin plastic to see if that works better.

Seating / Crimp die view 1

Seating / Crimp die view 2

Overall score for this expander die, 4/5

Value for the money:

Overall, this is a great set of dies. Retailing at $57.07, the basic set is a bit spendy, but looking online today, I saw them on sale for a bit over $35. Factor in the free bullet deal, and then you’re talking about a great value. Based on the average street price of $40 or so, I’d call these a good deal, so the score here is 4/5.

Summing it all up:

The Hornady “Custom Grade New Dimension” pistol dies are top quality, and offer some great features. I’ve reloaded 1000’s of pistol rounds in 9mm, 38 special, 357 magnum, 44 magnum, and 45acp with these die sets. I would like to see Hornady offer a 4 die pistol set (with taper crimp die), and have a bit of trouble with the rubber washer on the bullet seating die, but those are really nit-picks in the grand scheme of things. The split lock rings work great, and the extra parts and tools are very handy. If you do buy a taper crimp die, there’s room in the box for it (I have one for 45acp). These dies are also covered by a lifetime warrantee. Currently, there’s a free bullet promotion where you can get 100 Hornady XTP bullets with each set of dies (that’s about a $20 value), that definately sweetens the deal! For more details see www.hornady.com.

Complete Review Video: